Difference between revisions of "Template:Bouldering"

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'''Bouldering''' is a style of [[rock climbing]] undertaken without a rope and normally limited to very short climbs so that a fall will not result in serious injury. It is typically practiced on large [[boulder]]s or artificial man-made boulders.  However, it may also be practiced at the base of larger rock faces, or even on buildings or public architecture (see [[buildering]]).
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{{short description|Form of rock climbing}}
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{{good article}}
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{{Use dmy dates|date=July 2013}}
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{{Climbing sidebar|image=Bouldering.jpg|caption=Bouldering in [[Idyllwild, California]]}}
  
==Bouldering Basics==
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'''Bouldering''' is a form of [[rock climbing]] that is performed on small rock formations or artificial [[climbing wall|rock walls]] without the use of ropes or [[Climbing harness|harnesses]]. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers use [[climbing shoe]]s to help secure footholds, [[Magnesium carbonate|chalk]] to keep their hands dry and to provide a firmer grip, and [[bouldering mat]]s to prevent injuries from falls. Unlike [[free solo climbing]], which is also performed without ropes, bouldering problems (the sequence of moves that a climber performs to complete the climb) are usually less than 6 meters (20&nbsp;ft.) tall. Traverses, which are a form of boulder problem, require the climber to climb horizontally from one end to another.<ref name="Access2006"/> [[Indoor climbing|Artificial climbing walls]] allow boulderers to climb indoors in areas without natural boulders. In addition, [[Competition climbing|bouldering competitions]] take place in both indoor and outdoor settings.<ref>See [http://www.stonecountry.co.uk/page11.html ''The Boulder: A Philosophy for Bouldering'' (Stone Country Press)] {{webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130816065033/http://www.stonecountry.co.uk/page11.html |date=16 August 2013 }}, by Francis Sanzaro, for a more on bouldering movement, and its relation to other sports. I also found [https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By3ygZspcP4WcDZsYnU2alpRLUk/edit this article] from Sanzaro on bouldering philosophy and landscape, called "[https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By3ygZspcP4WcDZsYnU2alpRLUk/edit When the Earth Enters You – Movement Aesthetics]."</ref>
[[Image:Bouldering.jpg|right|thumb|250px|A climber with chalked-up hands and a crash pad on the ground. <small>(Black Mountain, [[Idyllwild]], [[California]], [[U.S.]])</small>]]  
 
Bouldering is a style of climbing emphasizing power, strength, and dynamics. Its focus is on individual moves or short sequences of moves, unlike [[traditional climbing]] or [[sport climbing]], which generally demand more endurance over longer stretches of rock where the difficulty of individual moves is not as great. Boulder routes are commonly referred to as ''problems'' (a British appellation) because the nature of the climb is often short, curious, and much like problem solving. Sometimes these problems are [[Glossary of climbing terms#E|eliminates]], meaning certain artificial restrictions are imposed.
 
  
To reduce the risk of injury from a fall, climbers rarely go higher than 3-5 meters above the ground. Anything over 7 meters is generally considered to be [[free-soloing]] (or simply 'soloing' in the United Kingdom), although such climbs might also be termed ''high-ball'' bouldering problems. For further protection, climbers typically put a [[bouldering mat]] (crash pad) on the ground to break their fall.  Lastly, climbers often have one or more [[spotting (climbing)|spotters]], who work to direct the climber's body toward the crash pad during a fall, while protecting the climber's head from hazards.
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The sport was originally a method of training for roped climbs and [[mountaineering]], so climbers could practice specific moves at a safe distance from the ground. Additionally, the sport served to build stamina and increase finger strength. Throughout the 20th century, bouldering evolved into a separate discipline.<ref>{{cite book|last=Hill|first=Pete|title=The Complete Guide to Climbing and Mountaineering|year=2008|publisher=David&Charles|location=Cincinnati, OH 45236|isbn=978-0-7153-2842-2|page=94}}</ref> Individual problems are assigned ratings based on difficulty. Although there have been various [[Grade (bouldering)|rating systems]] used throughout the history of bouldering, modern problems usually use either the V-scale or the [[Fontainebleau rock climbing|Fontainebleau]] scale.
  
Bouldering is increasing in popularity; bouldering areas are common in indoor climbing gyms and some climbing gyms are dedicated solely to bouldering. Children are joining the sport now as well as adults. In fact, studies have found that young climbers develop better skills as adults from their experience with youthful disadvantages such as height and strength.{{Fact|date=August 2007}}
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The growing popularity of bouldering has caused several environmental concerns, including soil [[erosion]] and trampled vegetation, as climbers often hike off-trail to reach bouldering sites. This has caused some landowners to restrict access or prohibit bouldering altogether.
  
===Equipment===
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== Outdoor bouldering ==
One of the major appeals of bouldering is its relatively scant equipment requirements. It is not uncommon to see people bouldering with shoes, a chalkbag, and a small mat to wipe their feet on. Although nothing is actually required, common equipment includes:
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[[File:Hueco Tanks - Baby Martini - V6.webm|thumb|Bouldering in [[Hueco Tanks]]: ''Baby Martini'' (V6)]][[File:The Cliffs at DUMBO.jpg|thumb|right|The largest outdoor bouldering gym in North America, The Cliffs at DUMBO, is located in [[Brooklyn Bridge Park]].<ref>https://dumbo.is/hometo/cliffs-at-dumbo</ref><ref>https://www.timeout.com/newyork/news/the-largest-indoor-climbing-gym-in-the-country-is-returning-to-brooklyn-bridge-park-050718{{Dead link|date=June 2020 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref>]]
* Loose, powdered [[Chalk (Drying agent)|chalk]] as a hand drying agent while climbing.
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The characteristics of boulder problems depend largely on the type of rock being climbed. For example, [[granite]] often features long [[Crack climbing|cracks]] and [[slab climbing|slab]]s while [[sandstone]] rocks are known for their steep overhangs and frequent horizontal breaks. [[Limestone]] and [[volcanic rock]] are also used for bouldering.<ref name="Lourens2005"/>{{rp|21–22}}
* A mattress-like object called a [[bouldering mat|crash pad]]. These are generally thick, rectangular foam pads with a heavy-duty fabric shell. They are opened and placed at the base of a boulder to cover irregularities in the landing and provide some cushion if the climber falls.
 
* [[Climbing shoes]], for better traction and edging capabilities.
 
* A brush, or several brushes of differing sizes, typically with nylon bristles but sometimes coarse animal hair, is used to clean holds and is often mounted on a telescopic pole to allow greater reach.
 
* Sports tape is useful for covering cuts or blisters, as well as providing support for joints that may have been strained.
 
* Clothing usually include a sleeveless shirt and shorts, though anything that's comfortable and flexible enough will generally work.
 
  
===Ratings===
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There are many prominent bouldering areas throughout the United States, including [[Hueco Tanks]] in Texas, [[Mount Evans]] in Colorado, and [[The Buttermilks]] in [[Bishop, California]]. [[Squamish, British Columbia]] is one of the most popular bouldering areas in Canada.<ref name="Robinson2013">{{cite book|author=Robinson, Victoria|first=|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=3OkUEt8CuXQC|title=Rock Climbing|publisher=ABC-CLIO|year=2013|isbn=9780313378621|location=|pages=80-81}}</ref> Europe is also home to a number of bouldering sites, such as [[Fontainebleau]] in France, [[Albarracín]] in Spain, and various mountains throughout [[Switzerland]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.climb-europe.com/areas.htm|title=Rock climbing in Europe |publisher=Climb Europe |year=2013 |accessdate=10 August 2013}}</ref> Africa's most prominent bouldering areas include the more established Rocklands in South Africa, the newer Oukaimeden in Morocco or more recently opened areas like Chimanimani in Zimbabwe.
{{main|Grade (bouldering)}}
 
As in other types of climbing, bouldering has developed its own [[grade (bouldering)|grading systems]] for comparing the difficulty of problems. The most commonly used grading systems are the Fontainebleau system which ranges from 1 to 8c+, and the John Sherman V-grade system, beginning at V0 and increasing by integers to a current top grade of V16 (The Wheel of Life by [[Dai Koyamada]] in the [[Grampians National Park|Grampians]], Australia<ref>http://www.climbing.com/news/koyainaust/index.html</ref>).  Both scales are open-ended at the top, and thus the upper grade of these systems is always increasing as boulderers ascend more difficult problems.
 
  
===History===
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== Indoor bouldering ==
Bouldering's documented origins may be found in the [[United Kingdom]], [[France]], and [[Italy]] in the last quarter of the 19th century <ref name=Gill>[http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/Bouldering_History1.0.html Origins of Bouldering - from John Gill's Website]</ref>. The British coined the word ''bouldering'' at that time. For many years, bouldering was usually viewed as training for [[climbing|climbers]], although, in the 1930s and late 1940s, [[Pierre Allain]] and his companions enjoyed bouldering for its own sake in [[Fontainebleau]], considered by many to be the [[Mecca]] of bouldering. The first climber to actually make bouldering his primary specialty (in the mid 1950s) and to advocate its acceptance as a legitimate sport not restricted to a particular area was [[John Gill (climber)|John Gill]], an amateur [[gymnast]] who found the challenge and movement of bouldering enjoyable. <ref name=JG> ''The Art of Bouldering'' by John Gill, The Journal of the [[American Alpine Club]], 1969 </ref>
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{{details|Indoor climbing}}
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[[File:ボルダリング (7955003588).jpg|alt=An indoor bouldering gym|thumb|An indoor bouldering gym]]
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Artificial climbing walls are used to simulate boulder problems in an indoor environment, usually at [[climbing gym]]s. These walls are constructed with wooden panels, [[polymer]] cement panels, [[concrete]] shells, or precast molds of actual rock walls.<ref name="StiehlRamsey2005">{{cite book|author1=Stiehl, Jim|first=|url=https://archive.org/details/climbingwallscom0000stie|title=Climbing Walls|author2=Ramsey, Tim B.|publisher=Human Kinetics|year=2005|isbn=9780736048316|location=|pages=49-51|url-access=registration|lastauthoramp=yes}}</ref> Holds, usually made of [[plastic]], are then bolted onto the wall to create problems.<ref name="Lourens2005"/>{{rp|18}} The walls often feature steep overhanging surfaces which force the climber to employ highly technical movements while supporting much of their weight with their upper body strength.<ref name="Burbach2005"/>{{rp|133}} However, in more recent times, many problems set on flat walls now require the climber to execute a series of coordinated movements in order to complete the route. These routes were likely to have originated at the Stuntwerk<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.stuntwerk-koeln.de/shop_en|title=Trainingsgeräte Klettern, Parkour und Ninja Warrior im Stuntwerk|website=www.stuntwerk-koeln.de|language=de|access-date=2019-12-14}}{{Dead link|date=March 2020 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> gym in Germany, and the style of climbing can be said to closely resemble the sport of [[Parkour]]. The [[IFSC Climbing World Championships]] have noticeably included more of such problems in their competitions as of late.
  
===Terminology===
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Climbing gyms often feature multiple problems within the same section of wall. In the US the most common method routesetters use to designate the intended problem is by placing colored tape next to each hold. For example, red tape would indicate one bouldering problem while green tape would be used to set a different problem in the same area.<ref name="Burbach2005">{{cite book | title=Gym Climbing |author=Burbach, Matt |publisher=The Mountaineers Books |year=2005 |isbn=9781594854804 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=48IYcqzwfHoC}}</ref>{{rp|48}} Across much of the rest of the world problems and grades are usually designated using a set color of plastic hold to indicate problems and their difficulty levels. Using colored holds to set has certain advantages, the most notable of which are that it makes it more obvious where the holds for a problem are, and that there is no chance of tape being accidentally kicked off footholds. Smaller, resource-poor climbing gyms may prefer taped problems because large, expensive holds can be used in multiple routes by marking them with more than one color of tape.
<!-- [[Highball]] links to this section -->
 
  
[[Image:Crash pad.jpg|right|thumb|250px|Bouldering in Saint Just, département of [[Cantal]], [[France]]]]
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== Grading ==
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[[File:Indoor Bouldering V3 Rock Spot.webm|right|thumb|150px|A climber completing an indoor V3 problem]]
  
<!-- If adding any terms, please keep in alphabetical order -->
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{{Main|Grade (bouldering)}}
;Adjusting (v.)
 
:Refining the hand or foot positions after the first catch or step to improve balance and power consumption, or just to make place for second arm or feet.
 
  
;Arrete (n.)
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Bouldering problems are assigned numerical difficulty ratings by routesetters and climbers. The two most widely used rating systems are the V-scale and the Fontainebleau system.<ref name="Hill2008">{{cite book|author=Hill, Pete|first=|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=OsL2ifP6JucC|title=The Complete Guide to Climbing and Mountaineering|publisher=David & Charles|year=2008|isbn=9780715328422|location=|pages=234}}</ref>
:An edge of a rock.
 
  
;Beached Whale (v.)
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The V-scale, which originated in the United States, is an open-ended rating system with higher numbers indicating a higher [[degree of difficulty]]. The V1 rating indicates that a problem can be completed by a novice climber in good physical condition after several attempts.<ref name="Sherman2001">{{cite book | title=Sherman Exposed | author=Sherman, John | publisher=The Mountaineers Books |year=2001 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Tp7eUBRn4M4C |isbn=9781594853968}}</ref>{{rp|66}} The scale begins at V0, and as of 2013, the highest V rating that has been assigned to a bouldering problem is V17.<ref name=first9Aboulder /> Some climbing gyms also use a VB grade to indicate beginner problems.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.spadout.com/wiki/index.php/Climbing_Grades |title=Climbing Grades |publisher=Spadout |accessdate=4 August 2013 |year=2012 |url-status=dead |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20131029194956/http://www.spadout.com/wiki/index.php/Climbing_Grades |archivedate=29 October 2013 |df=dmy-all }}</ref>
:A very poor way of topping out, which involves the climber flopping back and forth to try and get on top of the rock. This action looks much like a beached whale trying to get back into the sea, as the name implies.
 
  
;Beta (n.)
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The Fontainebleau scale follows a similar system, with each numerical grade divided into three ratings with the letters ''a'', ''b'', and ''c''. For example, Fontainebleau 7A roughly corresponds with V6, while Fontainebleau 7C+ is equivalent to V10.<ref name="Horan2008">{{cite book|author=Horan, Bob|first=|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=UqWepPShgIoC|title=Falcon Guides Bouldering Colorado|publisher=Globe Pequot|year=2008|isbn=9780762736386|location=|pages=3}}</ref> In both systems, grades are further differentiated by appending "+" to indicate a small increase in difficulty. Despite this level of specificity, ratings of individual problems are often controversial, as ability level is not the only factor that affects how difficult a problem may be for a particular climber. Height, arm length, [[flexibility]], and other body characteristics can also be relevant to perceived difficulty.<ref name="Horst2012">{{cite book|author=Horst, Eric J.|first=|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=wrekMmogxqoC|title=Learning to Climb Indoors|publisher=Globe Pequot|year=2012|isbn=9780762780051|edition=2nd|location=|pages=11-12}}</ref>
:Any helpful tips, solutions to problems, guides, tricks, ''etc'' that one climber passes on to another, usually about a particular problem (as opposed to tips about bouldering in general, though there is obviously some overlap).
 
  
;Boulderer (n.)
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== Highball bouldering ==
:Any person participating in bouldering; usually synonymous in context with the more general term 'climber'.
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Highball bouldering is simply climbing high, difficult, long, and tall boulders. Using the same protection as standard bouldering, climbers venture up house-sized rocks that test not only their physical skill and strength but mental focus. Highballing, like most of climbing, is open to interpretation. Most climbers say anything above 15 feet is a highball and can range in height up to 35–40 feet where highball bouldering then turns into [[free soloing]].
  
;Crash pad (n.)
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Highball bouldering may have begun in 1961 when [[John Gill (climber)|John Gill]], without top-rope rehearsal, bouldered a steep face on a 37-foot (11 meter) granite spire called "''The Thimble''".<ref name=Wizards>>Ament, Pat (2002). ''Wizards of Rock: A History of Free Climbing in America'', Wilderness Press</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105714549/the-thimble|title=Rock Climbing in Custer State Park|website=Mountain Project|access-date=2018-03-28}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.redbull.com/int-en/episodes/AP-1M8AK3NFD2111|title=High & Mighty: Part 1}}</ref>  [[File:The_Thimble.jpg|thumb|right|150px|Climber on the Thimble in the 1960s]]The difficulty level of this ascent (V4/5 or 5.12a) was extraordinary for that time.<ref>''Climbing Magazine'', Millennium Special, March (2000)</ref>  Gill's achievement initiated a wave of climbers making ascents of large boulders. Later, with the introduction and evolution of crash pads, climbers were able to push the limits of highball bouldering ever higher.
:A pad, usually made of foam, placed at the bottom of a boulder problem onto which a climber can land if they fall, reducing the likelihood of some injuries. (A green crash pad is pictured at right under the climber.)
 
  
;Crimp (n. v.)
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In 2002 [[Jason Kehl]] completed the first highball at double-digit V-difficulty, called Evilution, a 55-foot (16.8 meter) boulder in the Buttermilks of California, earning the grade of V12.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105908296/evilution|title=Climb Evilution, Sierra Eastside|website=Mountain Project|access-date=2018-03-28}}</ref> This climb marked the beginning of a new generation of highball climbing that pushed not only height, but great difficulty.{{Citation needed|date=August 2019}}It is not unusual for climbers to rehearse such risky problems on top-rope, although this practice is not a settled issue.
:A type of hold used when the climber can fit only their fingertips on the hold. A crimp may be 'closed,' in which the thumb is pressed over the index finger to strengthen one's grip, or the crimp may be 'open', where the thumb does not touch the fingers. Closed crimps, while stronger, put more stress on the hand and are generally regarded as posing a higher risk of injury.
 
  
;Crux (n.)
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Groundbreaking ascents in this style include; ''Ambrosia'', a 55-foot (16.8 meter) boulder in Bishop, California, climbed by [[Kevin Jorgeson]] in 2015 sporting the grade of V11.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.mountainproject.com/route/110088205/ambrosia|title=Climb Ambrosia, Sierra Eastside|website=Mountain Project|access-date=2018-03-28}}</ref>
:The most dificult move or series of moves in a problem. There may be also multiple cruxes in single boulder, like hard sit start in combination with easy middle and hard top out, or hard crimping and later mono section.
 
  
;Dab (v.)
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''Too Big to Flail,'' V10, another 55 foot (16.8 meter) line in Bishop, California, climbed by [[Alex Honnold]] in 2016.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.mountainproject.com/route/111711154/too-big-to-flail|title=Climb Too Big To Flail, Sierra Eastside|website=Mountain Project|access-date=2018-03-28}}</ref>
:Touching anything other than the climbing surface in any way, whether intentional or not; it is grounds for immediate termination of a 'send' attempt.
 
  
;Deathball (n.)
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''Livin' Large'', a 35-foot V15 in Rocklands, South Africa, found and established by [[Nalle Hukkataival]] in 2009, which has been repeated by only one person, [[Jimmy Webb (climber)|Jimmy Webb]].<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.hardclimbs.info/climbs/livin-large|title=HardClimbs.info {{!}} Ascents for Livin' Large|website=www.hardclimbs.info|access-date=2018-03-28}}</ref>
:Similar to a highball, but high enough that if one would fall, death is a possibility.
 
  
;Dyno (n.)
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''The Process'' is a 55-foot V16 in Bishop, California, first climbed by [[Daniel Woods]] in 2015.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/daniel-woods-climbs-process-v16-highball-bishop-ca-david-clifford|title=Daniel Woods climbs "The Process" a V16 highball in Bishop, CA.|date=2015-02-02|access-date=2018-03-28|language=en}}</ref> The line was worked with another climber, Dan Beal, but a hold broke after Woods's top and the climb has yet to see a second ascent as of Sep 28, 2017. <ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.outsideonline.com/2237961/12-great-moments-bouldering-history|title=12 Great Moments in Bouldering History|website=www.outsideonline.com|access-date=2020-01-07}}</ref>
:Shortened form of ''dynamic movement''. Essentially any movement that requires the climber to jump or to swing from one hold to another. Technically, a dyno is a move that, if not completed successfully (by catching the next hold), will result in a fall. Some consider the definition of the dyno as every dynamic movement that cannot be reversed, e.g. to be not able to return to the previous position after doing that kind of move.
 
  
;Eliminate (n. v.) (a.k.a. Elimination)
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== Competitions ==
:Any problem that eliminates some of the holds on a natural way up the boulder, maximizing the total number of climbs in a limited space. The removed holds or rock parts can be removed for foots, hands or both.
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Traditionally, competition in bouldering was informal, with climbers working out problems near the limits of their abilities, then challenging their peers to repeat these accomplishments. However, modern climbing gyms allow for a more formal competitive structure.
  
;First Ascent (n.) (a.k.a. FA)
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The [[International Federation of Sport Climbing]] (IFSC) employs an indoor format (although competitions can also take place in an outdoor setting<ref name="Lourens2005">{{cite book |title=Guide to Climbing |author=Lourens, Tony |publisher=Stackpole Books |year=2005 |isbn=9780811701525 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=mdQcBNKK1iIC}}</ref>{{rp|18}}) that breaks the competition into three rounds: qualifications, semi-finals, and finals. The rounds feature different sets of four to six boulder problems, and each competitor has a fixed amount of time to attempt each problem. At the end of each round, competitors are ranked by the number of completed problems with ties settled by the total number of attempts taken to solve the problems.<ref name="IFSC Rules">{{cite web |title=IFSC Rules 2013 |url=https://climbgearhub.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/IFSC_Rules_2013_V1-2.pdf |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190412001936/https://climbgearhub.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/IFSC_Rules_2013_V1-2.pdf |url-status=dead |archive-date=2019-04-12 |format=PDF |publisher=International Federation of Sport Climbing |date=March 2013 |accessdate=25 June 2013 }}</ref>
:As it sounds - to climb a project for a first time.
 
  
;First Go (n.)
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Some competitions only permit climbers a fixed number of attempts at each problem with a timed rest period in between.<ref name="Hague2011">{{cite book|author1=Hague, Dan|first=|title=Redpoint|author2=Hunter, Douglas|publisher=Stackpole Books|year=2011|isbn=9780811745079|location=|pages=175|lastauthoramp=yes}}</ref> In an open-format competition, all climbers compete simultaneously, and are given a fixed amount of time to complete as many problems as possible. More points are awarded for more difficult problems, while points are deducted for multiple attempts on the same problem.<ref name="Schmid2011">{{cite book|author=Schmid, Stephen E.|first=|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Ilq1usRiD2EC|title=Climbing – Philosophy for Everyone|publisher=John Wiley & Sons|year=2011|isbn=9781444341461|location=|pages=201}}</ref>
:This is the case when the climber has climbed some sections of the boulder already and then climbs the whole boulder on his first try. This can happen when the boulderer wanted to check out the crux section just to see if it is possible for him to do the boulder or when he already has climbed part of the boulder, which is a variaton of the current one or belongs to other line.
 
  
;Flag (v.)
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[[File:BW 2012-08-26 Dorothea Karalus GER 0541.JPG|right|thumb|150px|A competitor at the 2012 Boulder World Cup]]
:Extending a leg as a counter-balance without placing your foot on a hold.
 
  
;Flash (n.)
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In 2012, the IFSC submitted a proposal to the [[International Olympic Committee]] (IOC) to include [[lead climbing]] in the [[2020 Summer Olympics]]. The proposal was later revised to an "overall" competition, which would feature bouldering, lead climbing, and [[speed climbing]].<ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.climbing.com/news/new-olympic-plan-climbers-must-compete-in-bouldering-lead-and-speed/ |title=New Olympic Plan: Climbers Must Compete in Bouldering, Lead, and Speed |last=MacDonald |first=Dougald |publisher=Climbing.com |date=20 March 2013 |accessdate=9 July 2013 }}</ref> In May 2013, the IOC announced that climbing would not be added to the 2020 Olympic program.<ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.climbing.com/news/climbing-out-of-the-olympic-games-running/ |title=Climbing Out of the Running for Olympic Games |date=29 May 2013 |accessdate=9 July 2013}}</ref>
:Completing a problem on the first try with no falls, but with beta. The climber can also check the holds but not to hang on them or put his feet on the boulder.
 
  
;Free (v.)
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In 2016, the [[International Olympic Committee]] (IOC) officially approved climbing as an Olympic sport "in order to appeal to younger audiences." The Olympics will feature the earlier proposed overall competition. Medalists will be competing in all three categories for a best overall score.<ref>Corrigan, Kevin. http://www.climbing.com/news/climbing-officially-approved-for-2020-olympics/ N.p., 3 Aug. 2016. Web. 12 Nov. 2016.</ref> The score will be calculated by the multiplication of the positions that the climbers have attained in each discipline of climbing.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.climbing.com/competition/a-guide-to-the-olympic-climbing-format/|title=A Guide to the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Climbing Format|last=Burgman|first=John|website=Climbing Magazine|language=en-us|access-date=2019-12-14}}</ref>
:To FA a problem usually refers when the project was available for a long time and was opened for all (which in climbing ethics means that everyone may try the problem and take the FA).
 
  
;Gaston (n.)
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== History ==
:A hand hold, when gripped, turns the climbers hand inwards (thumbs down). A left hand Gaston, if used by the right hand, becomes a right hand Side-Pull.
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Rock climbing first appeared as a sport in the late-1800s. Early records describe climbers engaging in what is now referred to as bouldering, not as a separate discipline, but as a playful form of training for larger ascents. It was during this time that the words "bouldering" and "problem" first appeared in British climbing literature. [[Oscar Eckenstein]] was an early proponent of the activity in the British Isles.<ref>The Origins of Bouldering. http://www.johngill.net</ref> In the early 20th century, the [[Fontainebleau]] area of [[France]] established itself as a prominent climbing area, where some of the first dedicated ''bleausards'' (or "boulderers") emerged. One of those athletes, [[Pierre Allain]], invented the specialized shoe used for rock climbing.<ref name="Beal2011"/>
  
;Grade (n.)
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[[File:Gill_on_The_Scab_,_1963_,_The_Needles_of_the_Balck_Hills,_SD.jpg|thumb|165px|Gill on the Scab in the Needles of the Black Hills 1963]]
:Boulder problems are ranked by difficulty using a [[Grade (bouldering)|graded system]].
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In the late 1950s through the 1960s, American mathematician [[John Gill (climber)|John Gill]] pushed the sport further and contributed several important innovations, distinguishing bouldering as a separate discipline in the process.<ref name=Master>Ament, Pat (1998). ''John Gill:Master of Rock. Climbing Classics #2'', Stackpole Books</ref><ref>{{YouTube|8FdMLil9lNU}}</ref> Gill previously pursued [[gymnastics]], a sport which had an established scale of difficulty for movements and body positions, and shifted the focus of bouldering from reaching the summit to navigating a set of holds.<ref name="Beal2011"/> Gill developed a rating system that was closed-ended: B1 problems were as difficult as the most challenging roped routes of the time, B2 problems were more difficult, and B3 problems had been completed once.<ref name="Sherman2001"/>{{rp|64–65}}
  
[[Image:Rat rock 2 020.jpg|thumb|250px|Spotters at Rat Rock in Central Park, NYC. Photo by [http://www.flickr.com/people/joshunojoshu/ joshunojoshu]]]
+
Gill introduced [[magnesium carbonate|chalk]] as a method of keeping the climber's hands dry, promoted a dynamic climbing style, and emphasized the importance of [[strength training]] to complement skill.<ref>For more on Gill's bouldering philosophy, see [http://www.stonecountry.co.uk/page11.html ''The Boulder: A Philosophy for Bouldering'' (Stone Country Press)] {{webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130816065033/http://www.stonecountry.co.uk/page11.html |date=16 August 2013 }}, by Francis Sanzaro (Stone Country press, 2013).</ref>  As Gill improved in ability and influence, his ideas became the norm.<ref name="Beal2011"/>
;Highball (n.)
 
:A term for a boulder that is so high, falling when close to the top could cause serious injury. Some highballs have anchor bolts at the top to allow for protected top-rope climbing.
 
  
;Hold (n.)
+
In the 1980s, two important training tools emerged. One important training tool was [[bouldering mat]]s, also referred to as "crash pads", which protected against injuries from falling and enabled boulderers to climb in areas that would have been too dangerous otherwise. The second important tool was indoor climbing walls, which helped spread the sport to areas without outdoor climbing and allowed serious climbers to train year-round.<ref name="Beal2011"/>
:Any rock feature that a climber can use to ascend the problem. These can be cracks, crimps, jugs, places to smear, ''etc'', that can be used in any useful way by the hands or the feet.
 
  
;Jam (v. n.)
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As the sport grew in popularity, new bouldering areas were developed throughout Europe and the United States, and more athletes began participating in bouldering competitions. The visibility of the sport greatly increased in the early 2000s, as [[YouTube]] videos and climbing [[blog]]s helped boulderers around the world to quickly learn techniques, find hard problems, and announce newly completed projects.<ref name="Beal2011"/>
:Placing a foot or a hand, usually in a crack, and rotating or loading it so that it can fully support the climber.
 
  
;Jug (n.)
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[[File:Christian Core on Gioia.jpg|thumb|[[Christian Core]] on ''Gioia'' ([[Varazze]], [[Italy|ITA]]), first {{Boulder grade|8C+}} boulder in history, 2008]]
:A hold that is large enough to allow the climber to reach their entire hand around (or inside of), making it a good low-impact hold, usually with low possibility of injury. In hard boulders jugs are well beloved for resting (shaking hands or even no hand rests).
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[[File:Midnight Lightning yosemite.jpg|thumb|Michael Rael Armas on ''Midnight Lightning'', [[Camp 4 (Yosemite)|Camp 4]] ([[Yosemite National Park]], [[United States|USA]]), one of the world's most famous bouldering problems]]
  
;Mantle (v.)
+
=== Notable ascents ===
:A manoeuver whereby the climber initially pulls down on a hold (usually matched) with enough force to propel them upwards, and then rapidly changes the pulling motion into a downward pushing motion.
+
{{Main|Notable first free ascents}}
 +
{{Boulder grade|9A}} (unconfirmed):
  
;Matching (v.)
+
:*''Burden of Dreams'' – Lappnor ([[Finland|{{ISO 3166 code-3|Finland}}]]) – October 2016 – Grade proposed by Nalle Hukkataival after several years of trials. During these years, Hukkataival "very quickly" solved several 8C and 8C+ boulder problems throughout the world, including ''Gioia'' (see below). Compared to these other problems, ''Burden of Dreams'' felt "way way harder".<ref name=first9Aboulder>{{Cite web|url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/nalle-hukkataival-climbs-burden-of-dreams-and-proposes-worlds-first-9a-boulder-problem.html|title=Nalle Hukkataival climbs Burden of Dreams and proposes world's first 9a boulder problem|date=24 October 2016|editor=Planet Mountain|accessdate=25 July 2018}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DQf7aGO1uU|title=Interview: Nalle Hukkataival – Burden of Dreams (9A bloc)|publisher=Relais Vertical|accessdate=2 September 2017}}</ref>
:Matching implies that both climber's feet or hands are on the same hold.
+
:* ''No Kpote Only'' - Fontainebleau ([[France|FR]]) - December 2018 - First ascent by [[Charles Albert (climber)]]; world's second 9A (unconfirmed).<ref name=NoKapoteOnly1>{{web cite|url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/charles-albert-at-fontainebleau-climbs-world-s-second-9a-boulder-problem.html|title=Charles Albert at Fontainebleau climbs world's second 9A boulder problem|editor=planetmountain.com|accessdate=7 July 2019}}</ref>. [[Ryohei Kameyama]] repeated the climb in March 2019, proposing that the grade might be soft. <ref>https://www.climbing.com/news/no-kpote-only-9a-v17-gets-second-ascent-possible-downgrade/</ref>
  
;Offwidth (n. adj.)
+
{{Boulder grade|8C+}}:
:An awkward crack that is too wide to jam a hand in, yet not wide enough to back and foot. These typically require a combination of several different methods to achieve a good hold.
 
  
;Onsight (v.)
+
:*''Gioia'' – [[Varazze]] ([[Italy|ITA]]) – 2008 – First ascent by Italian boulderer [[Christian Core]], who first proposed 8C, "to play things safe". In 2011, [[Adam Ondra]] repeated the ascent and wholeheartedly proposed the 8C+ grade, describing the boulder as one of the hardest in the world, together with ''Terranova'' (see below).<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-the-pure-gioia-interview.html|title=Adam Ondra, the pure Gioia interview|publisher=Planetmountain|date=7 December 2011 |accessdate=1 August 2017}}</ref>
:To send a problem on the first try without falling and with no beta. Usually onsighting for boulders is not so widely accepted, because on most boulders the beta is pretty obvios due to chalked holds, which are not so far above the climbers view point. That makes applying the onsight rule possible in rare cases and normally the ascent goes to the flash category.
+
:* ''Terranova'' – [[Holstejn]] ([[Moravsky Kras]], [[Czech Republic|CZE]]) – 10 November 2011 – First ascent by Adam Ondra.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-frees-terranova-8c-.html|title=Adam ondra frees Terranova 8C+|date=15 November 2011 |accessdate=1 August 2017}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64987|title=8C+ boulder by Ondra|work=UKClimbing.com|last=Pohl|first=Björn|accessdate=7 October 2012}}</ref>
  
;Overhang (n.)
+
{{Boulder grade|8C}}:
:A rock face which creates an acute angle with the ground.
 
  
;Pinch (n. v.)
+
:*''The story of two worlds'' – [[Cresciano]] ([[Switzerland|SUI]]) – January 2005 – First confirmed 8C in history, by [[Dave Graham (climber)|Dave Graham]].<ref>
:A hold or movement that has the boulderer pinch a hold.
+
{{cite news |url=http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=389|title=Dave Graham, 'The story of two worlds' his new 8C and his new grading philosophy|publisher=FreakClimbing|date=19 January 2005|accessdate=1 August 2017}}</ref> Five years earlier, [[Fred Nicole]] had proposed 8C for ''Dreamtime'', on the other side of the same boulder, but most repeaters downgraded it to 8b+ (see below).
 +
:* ''The Game'' – [[Boulder, Colorado]] ([[United States|USA]]) – 2010 – First ascent by Daniel Woods, who originally graded it {{Boulder grade|8C+}}.<ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37243 |title=Daniel Woods plays The Game Fb8C+ |publisher=PlanetMountain |date=12 February 2010 |accessdate=11 August 2013}}</ref> Second ascent in 2013 by Carlo Traversi, who proposed {{Boulder grade|8C}}.<ref>{{cite news |url=http://climbingnarc.com/2011/03/carlo-traversi-repeats-the-game-v15-in-boulder-canyon/|title=Carlo Traversi repeats The Game (V15) in boulder canyon|publisher=Climbing Narc|date= 12 March 2011|accessdate=1 August 2017}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/carlo-traversi-sends-game-v1516 |title=Carlo Traversi Sends The Game (V15/16) |publisher=DPM Climbing |date=12 March 2011 |accessdate=11 August 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140201221735/http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/carlo-traversi-sends-game-v1516 |archive-date=1 February 2014 |url-status=dead |df=dmy-all }}</ref>
 +
:* ''Lucid Dreaming'' – [[Bishop, California]] ([[United States|USA]]) – 2010 – First ascent by [[Paul Robinson (climber)|Paul Robinson]], who initially graded it {{Boulder grade|8C+}},<ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37330 |title=Lucid Dreaming, new extreme boulder problem at the Buttermilks, Bishop |publisher=PlanetMountain |date=31 March 2010 |accessdate=11 August 2013}}</ref> and later downgraded it. In 2010, together with ''The game'' (see above), this was considered to be one of the world's most challenging boulders. Second ascent by Daniel Woods, who confirmed the {{Boulder grade|8C}} grade.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://climbingnarc.com/2014/01/daniel-woods-does-repeat-lucid-dreaming/ |title=Daniel Woods Does Repeat Lucid Dreaming |publisher=Climbing Narcissist |date=28 January 2014 |accessdate=30 January 2014}}</ref>
 +
:* ''Horizon'' - Mount Hiei ([[Japan|JPN]]) - 22 March 2016 - Second ascent and first female ascent by [[Ashima Shiraishi]]; world's first female 8C ascent. At the time, Ashima Shiraishi was the youngest person to send 8C. First ascent by [[Dai Koyamada]] in 2015.<ref name=Horizon1>{{web cite|url=https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/ashima-shiraishi-on-horizon-v15-sleepy-rave-v15-young-guns/|title=Ashima Shiraishi on Horizon (V15), Sleepy Rave (V15) & "Young Guns"|editor=Rock and Ice|accessdate=7 July 2019}}</ref>
 +
:* ''Sleepy Rave'' - Hollow Mountain Cave, Grampians ([[Australia|AUS]]) - 2 August 2016 - First female ascent by Ashima Shiraishi; world's second female 8C ascent. First ascent by Dai Koyamada in 2004.<ref name=SleepyRave1>{{web cite|url=https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/ashima-tops-second-v15-sleepy-rave-grampians-australia/|title=Ashima Tops Second V15, Sleepy Rave, Grampians, Australia|editor=Rock and Ice|accessdate=7 July 2019}}</ref> Some suggest this problem's rating is really V14.<ref>{{Cite news|url=http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/adventurers-of-the-year/2017/ashima-shiraishi-sport-climber-boulderer/|title=Could This 15-Year-Old Redefine Rock Climbing?|date=2016-11-03|access-date=2017-10-12}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.hardclimbs.info/climbs/sleepy-rave|title=HardClimbs.info {{!}} Ascents for Sleepy Rave|website=www.hardclimbs.info|access-date=2017-10-12}}</ref>
 +
:* ''Kryptos'' - Morchelstock, Balsthal ([[Switzerland|SUI]]) - June, 2018 - First female ascent by [[Kaddi Lehmann]]; world's third female 8C ascent. First ascent by Franz Widmer in 2008.<ref name=Kryptos1>{{web cite|url=https://onbouldering.com/kaddi-lehmann-repeats-kryptos-8c-v15-becomes-the-second-woman-to-climb-the-grade/|title=Kaddi Lehmann repeats Kryptos 8C|editor=onbouldering.com|accessdate=7 July 2019}}</ref>
 +
:* ''Byaku-dou'' - Mt. Hourai ([[Japan|JPN]]) - May, 2019 - First female ascent by [[Mishka Ishi]]; world's fourth female 8C ascent. To date, Mishka Ishi is the youngest person to send 8C. First ascent by Dai Koyamada in 2003.<ref name=Byakudou1>{{web cite|url=https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/mishka-ishi-13-becomes-youngest-ever-to-send-v15/|title=Mishka Ishi, 13, Becomes Youngest Ever to Send V15!|editor=Rock and Ice|accessdate=7 July 2019}}</ref>
  
;Problem (n.)
+
{{Boulder grade|8b+}}:
:A sequence of moves leading to the top of a boulder, or an indoor bouldering wall. Boulder problems are to bouldering as 'routes' are to traditional or sport climbing.
 
  
;Project (n.)
+
:*''Dreamtime'' – [[Cresciano]] ([[Switzerland|SUI]]) – 28 October 2000 – First ascent by Fred Nicole, who proposed an 8C rating, making it the first unconfirmed 8C boulder in history. In 2002, Dave Graham repeated it by finding a different solution. He used a [[Glossary of climbing terms#heel hook|heel-hook]] to make the brutal start sequence easier, and downgraded the problem to easy 8b+. Most of the following repeaters, including Adam Ondra, [[Chris Sharma]], and Daniel Woods adopted Graham's solution and agreed with him about the grade.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.99boulders.com/hardest-boulder-problems|title=Hardest boulder problems|publisher=99boulders|date=26 October 2016|accessdate=1 August 2017}}</ref><ref name=Dreamtime>{{cite news |url=https://community.mammut.ch/t5/Mammut-Magazine/The-Classics-Dreamtime/ba-p/2875|title=The classics – Dreamtime|magazine=Mammut Magazine|date=5 July 2017|accessdate=1 August 2017}}</ref> Notable exceptions are [[Jan Hojer]] and [[Christian Core]], who confirmed the 8C rating.<ref>[https://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.8a.nu%2Fuser%2FProfile.aspx%3FUserId%3D16898 Hojer Comments about Dreamtime on 8a.nu]</ref>
:A problem never done before. In climbing ethics there are usually two types of projects - opened (may be climbed by everyone) and closed (only the founder, may climb them). In climbing usually projects are marked with small rope knot on the first bolt that the projects are closed but in bouldering this cannot be done as no bolts exist, so usually the community should know if some boulder should be climbed or not (in parallel to bolting a route in climbing, we have "brushing" or "cleaning" a boulder in bouldering).
+
:* ''Catharsis'' - Shiobara ([[Japan|JPN]]) - October, 2012 - First female ascent by [[Tomoko Ogawa]]; world's first female 8B+ ascent. First ascent by Dai Koyamada.<ref name=Catharsis1>{{web cite|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2012/10/tomoko_ogawa_first_woman_to_boulder_8b+-67550|title=INTERVIEW: Tomoko Ogawa, first woman to boulder 8B+|editor=UKC|accessdate=7 July 2019}}</ref>
  
;Prow (n.)
+
{{Boulder grade|7B+}}:
:As it sounds (like an overhanging arete).
 
  
;Redpoint (v.)
+
:*''[[Midnight Lightning (bouldering)|Midnight Lightning]]'' – [[Camp 4 (Yosemite)|Camp 4]] ([[Yosemite National Park]], [[United States|USA]]) – 1978 – First ascent by [[Ron Kauk]]. First female ascent by [[Lynn Hill]], 1998.<ref name=natgeo>
:This term is generally used in sport and traditional climbing. To redpoint a route means that the climber completed the route, but after multiple tries.
+
{{cite magazine |url=http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/2008/09/yosemite/climbing-photosynth-text |title=Yosemite in 3-D |last=Rich |first=Corey |date=August 2008 |accessdate=9 May 2013 |magazine=National Geographic}}</ref><ref name=SI1986>
 +
{{Cite web |url=http://sportsillustrated.cnn.com/vault/article/magazine/MAG1064893/5/index.htm |title=On The Rocks, Kauk Is It |last=Moses |first=Sam |work=Sport Illustrated |date=2 June 1986 |accessdate=9 May 2013}}</ref><ref name=difficulty>
 +
{{Cite web |url=https://www.mountainproject.com/v/midnight-lightning/105835104 |title=Midnight Lightning – Mountain Project}}</ref> Thirty-nine years after its solution, it has been described as one of the world's most famous bouldering problems, together with ''Dreamtime'' (see above).<ref name=Dreamtime /><ref>
 +
{{Cite web |url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40853 |title=Midnight Lightning bolt, the icon of free climbing in Yosemite disappears for a day |publisher=planetmountain.com |date=7 May 2013 |accessdate=9 May 2013}}</ref>
  
;Roof (n.)
+
== Equipment ==
:A section of the rock face that is or nearly horizontal, with the climber climbing on the underside.
+
{{Main|Rock-climbing equipment}}
  
;Send (v.)
+
Unlike other climbing sports, bouldering can be performed safely and effectively with very little equipment, an aspect which makes the discipline highly appealing, but opinions differ.<ref name="Beal2011">{{cite book |title= Bouldering: Movement, Tactics, and Problem Solving |author = Beal, Peter | year=2011 | publisher = The Mountaineers Books | url = https://books.google.com/books?id=Ei5GEfWDrKYC | isbn=9781594855016 }}</ref> While bouldering pioneer [[John Sherman (climber)|John Sherman]] asserted that "The only gear really needed to go bouldering is boulders," others suggest the use of climbing shoes and a chalkbag – a small pouch where ground-up chalk is kept – as the bare minimum, and more experienced boulderers typically bring multiple pairs of climbing shoes, chalk, brushes, crash pads, and a skincare kit.<ref name="Sherman2011">{{cite book |title= Better Bouldering | author = Sherman, John | edition = 2nd | year = 2011 | publisher = Globe Pequot | url = https://books.google.com/books?id=AqYzRslaVYAC | isbn=9780762775583 }}</ref>{{rp|1}} <ref>{{Cite news|url=http://www.nomadcolorado.com/best-beginner-bouldering-areas-near-denver/|title=Best Beginner Bouldering Areas Near Denver - Nomad Colorado|date=2017-04-21|work=Nomad Colorado|access-date=2017-06-07|language=en-US}}</ref><ref name="Beal2011" />
:To successfully climb a problem (e.g. from the start to the end without falling somewhere, also regarding the given first ascender restrictions, if such exist).
 
  
;Sequence (n.)
+
[[File:Quechua climbing shoes.jpg|right|thumb|150px|A modern climbing shoe manufactured by [[Quechua (brand)|Quechua]] ]]
:The combination of movements to climb a single part or the whole boulder. Usually every climber has his own sequence for every problem according to his height, weight, power, technique, etc.
 
  
;Shep (v.)
+
Climbing shoes have the most direct impact on performance. Besides protecting the climber's feet from rough surfaces, climbing shoes are designed to help the climber secure footholds. Climbing shoes typically fit much tighter than other athletic footwear and often curl the toes downwards to enable precise footwork. They are manufactured in a variety of different styles to perform in different situations. For example, High-top shoes provide better protection for the ankle, while low-top shoes provide greater flexibility and freedom of movement. Stiffer shoes excel at securing small edges, whereas softer shoes provide greater sensitivity. The front of the shoe, called the "toe box", can be asymmetric, which performs well on overhanging rocks, or symmetric, which is better suited for vertical problems and [[slab climbing|slabs]].<ref name="Sherman2011"/>{{rp|1}}&thinsp;<ref name="Kidd2009">{{cite book|author1=Kidd, Timothy W.|first=|url=https://archive.org/details/rockclimbingoutd00wild|title=Rock Climbing|author2=Hazelrigs, Jennifer|publisher=Human Kinetics|year=2009|isbn=9781450409001|location=|pages=116-119|url-access=registration|lastauthoramp=yes}}</ref>&thinsp;<ref name="Beal2011"/>
:To run at a problem in an attempt to run up the start to where better holds may be. Not orthodox, but it works.
 
  
;Side-Pull (n. v.)
+
To absorb sweat, most boulderers use [[magnesium carbonate|gymnastics chalk]] on their hands, stored in a chalkbag, which can be tied around the waist (also called sport climbing chalkbags), allowing the climber to reapply chalk during the climb.<ref name="Kidd2009"/> There are also versions of floor chalkbags (also called bouldering chalkbags), which are usually bigger than sport climbing chalkbags and are meant to be kept on the floor while climbing; this is because boulders do not usually have so many movements as to require chalking up more than once. Different sizes of [[brush]]es are used to remove excess chalk and debris from boulders in between climbs; they are often attached to the end of a long straight object in order to reach higher holds.<ref name="Sherman2011"/>{{rp|6}} Crash pads, also referred to as [[bouldering mat]]s, are foam cushions placed on the ground to protect climbers from falls.<ref name="Sherman2011"/>{{rp|6–7}}
:A hold or movement in which the climber holds himself on the rock by hanging off the side of a hold. A left hand Side-Pull gripped with the right hand becomes a right hand Gaston.
 
  
;Sit Start (n.) (a.k.a. sds, assis)
+
== Safety ==
:A start to a problem beginning with the boulderer sitting on either the ground or on a crash pad, at the lowest point of a route. Typically, starting from a sit start increases the difficulty of a route.
+
[[File:Joshue Tree National Park - Manx Boulder - 6.jpg|thumb|227x227px|Climber with crash pad and spotters for safety]]
 +
Boulder problems are generally shorter than {{convert|20|ft|m}} from ground to top.<ref name="Access2006">{{cite web |url=http://www.accessfund.org/atf/cf/%7B1F5726D5-6646-4050-AA6E-C275DF6CA8E3%7D/BoulderingPaper.pdf |format=PDF |title=Bouldering: Understanding and Managing Climbing on Small Rock Formations |year=2006 |accessdate=4 August 2013 |publisher=The Access Fund |url-status=dead |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20131029190025/http://www.accessfund.org/atf/cf/%7B1F5726D5-6646-4050-AA6E-C275DF6CA8E3%7D/BoulderingPaper.pdf |archivedate=29 October 2013 |df=dmy-all }}</ref> This makes the sport significantly safer than [[free solo climbing]], which is also performed without ropes, but with no upper limit on the height of the climb.<ref name="Hattingh2000">{{cite book|author=Hattingh, Garth|first=|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-RZvVKB4600C|title=Rock and Wall Climbing|publisher=Stackpole Books|year=2000|isbn=9780811729161|location=|pages=10-11}}</ref> However, minor injuries are common in bouldering, particularly [[sprained ankle]]s and [[sprained wrist|wrists]]. Two factors contribute to the frequency of injuries in bouldering: first, boulder problems typically feature more difficult moves than other climbing disciplines, making falls more common. Second, without ropes to arrest the climber's descent, every fall will cause the climber to hit the ground.<ref name="Sherman2001"/>
  
;Slab (n.)
+
To prevent injuries, boulderers position [[bouldering mat|crash pads]] near the boulder to provide a softer landing, as well as one or more [[Spotting (climbing)|spotters]] (people watching out for the climber to fall in convenient position) to help redirect the climber towards the pads.<ref name="Access2006"/> Upon landing, boulderers employ falling techniques similar to those used in [[gymnastics]]: spreading the impact across the entire body to avoid [[bone fracture]]s, and positioning limbs to allow joints to move freely throughout the impact.<ref>{{cite web |title=Bouldering Safety |url=http://www.mec.ca/AST/ContentPrimary/Learn/Climbing/IntroToClimbing/SaferBouldering.jsp |publisher= Mountain Equipment Co-op |author1=Thomson, Jeff  |author2=Bourdon, Marc  |lastauthoramp=yes |accessdate=4 August 2013}}</ref>
:A rock face that is tilted less than vertical.
 
  
;Sloper (n.)
+
== Technique ==
:A hold that tends to slope, or is round (very little positive surface). Sometimes very difficult to grasp.
+
Although every type of rock climbing requires a high level of strength and technique, bouldering is the most dynamic form of the sport, requiring the highest level of power and placing considerable strain on the body. Training routines that strengthen fingers and forearms are useful in preventing injuries such as [[tendonitis]] and ruptured ligaments.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://rockandice.com/rock-climbing-training/injury-free-bouldering-15-tips-to-keep-you-healthy-and-strong/|title=Injury-Free Bouldering: 15 Tips to Keep You Healthy and Strong|website=Rock and Ice|language=en-US|access-date=2020-02-07}}</ref>
  
;Smear (v.)
+
However, as with other forms of climbing, bouldering technique begins with proper footwork. [[Leg muscles]] are significantly stronger than [[arm|arm muscles]]; thus, proficient boulderers use their arms to maintain balance and body positioning as much as possible, relying on their legs to push them up the rock.<ref name="Sherman2011"/>{{rp|52}} Boulderers also keep their arms straight with their shoulders engaged whenever feasible, allowing their bones to support their body weight rather than their muscles.<ref name="Long1997">{{cite book|author=Long, John|first=|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=YZSAnneM-OkC|title=Sport Climbing|publisher=Globe Pequot|year=1997|isbn=9781575400785|edition=3rd|location=|pages=60-61}}</ref>
:Pushing with the ball of the foot where there is no hold.
 
  
;Spot (v.), Spotting (n.)
+
Bouldering movements are described as either "static" or "dynamic". Static movements are those that are performed slowly, with the climber's position controlled by maintaining contact on the boulder with the other three limbs. Dynamic movements use the climber's [[momentum]] to reach holds that would be difficult or impossible to secure statically, with an increased risk of falling if the movement is not performed accurately.<ref name="Humi2002">{{cite book|author=Humi, Michelle|first=|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=giNqB3LifocC|title=Coaching Climbing|publisher=Globe Pequot|year=2002|isbn=9780762725342|location=|pages=70}}</ref>
:The act of being a spotter: this may include duties such as moving the crash pad, removing dangerous objects in the fall zone, and physically cushioning or modifying the trajectory of the climber in the event of a fall.
 
  
;Spotter (n.)
+
== Environmental impact ==
:A person who tends to the safety of the climber, who 'spots'.
+
Bouldering can damage vegetation that grows on rocks, such as [[moss]] and [[lichen]]s. This can occur as a result of the climber intentionally cleaning the boulder, or unintentionally from repeated use of handholds and footholds. Vegetation on the ground surrounding the boulder can also be damaged from overuse, particularly by climbers laying down crash pads. [[Soil erosion]] can occur when boulderers trample vegetation while hiking off of established trails, or when they unearth small rocks near the boulder in an effort to make the landing zone safer in case of a fall.<ref name="Access2006"/>{{rp|4–6}} The repeated use of white climbing chalk can damage the rock surface of boulders and cliffs, particularly sandstone and other porous rock types, and the scrubbing of rocks to remove chalk can also degrade the rock surface.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.thoughtco.com/use-colored-chalk-to-leave-no-trace-755626|title=Use Colored Climbing Chalk to Leave No Trace|work=ThoughtCo|access-date=2017-10-20}}</ref> In order to prevent chalk from damaging the surface of the rock, it is important to remove it gently with a brush after a rock climbing session. Other environmental concerns include [[littering]], improperly disposed [[feces]], and [[graffiti]]. These issues have caused some land managers to prohibit bouldering, as was the case in Tea Garden, a popular bouldering area in [[Rocklands, South Africa]].<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41107 |title=Rocklands bouldering at risk |date=31 July 2013 |accessdate= 4 August 2013 |publisher=PlanetMountain}}</ref>
  
;Thumb Catch (n.)
+
== References ==
:A hold where the thumb finds a place to grip, typically a small indentation or protrusion in/on the rock.
+
{{reflist}}
 
+
{{Commons category|Bouldering}}
;Traverse (v. n.)
 
:Generally a horizontal climb that involves traversing across a face or overhang, or sometimes around a boulder, occasionally finishing off at an [[arête]] in order to top out.
 
 
 
;Top out (v.)
 
:To complete a problem by getting to the top of the boulder where one can stand upright.
 
 
 
;Undercling (n. v.)
 
:A hold or movement where the climber grabs the bottom of the hold and pulls upwards, using his/her legs to apply tension and keep him/her on the rock.
 
 
 
==Famous Bouldering Areas==
 
 
 
The region around [[Fontainebleau]] near [[Paris]] is particularly famous for its beautiful and concentrated bouldering areas. Well-known areas include [[Stanage]] (UK), [[Hueco Tanks]] (Texas), [[Castle Hill, New Zealand|Castle Hill]] (New Zealand), [[Bishop, California|Bishop]] (California), [[Yosemite]] (California), [[Rocktown]] (Georgia), [[Rocklands]] (South Africa), [[Kjugekull]] (Sweden), [[Hampi]] (India)<ref name=Hampi >[http://www.hampi.in/bouldering-in-hampi.htm Bouldering in Hampi<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> [[Horse Pens 40]] (Alabama) and Horseshoe Canyon Ranch (Arkansas) amongst [[List of climbing areas|others]].
 
  
==Places to Boulder==
+
{{Climbing navbox}}
*[[Fontainebleau (bouldering)|Fontainebleau]] - biggest and most developed bouldering area in the world located in the [[Fontainebleau]] forrest. From there comes also the Fb bouldering grade.
+
{{Extreme sports}}
*[[List of New York bouldering sites]]
 
*[[List of New Jersey bouldering sites]]
 
*[[List of Utah bouldering sites]]
 
 
 
== See also ==
 
{{Extreme Sports}}
 
*[[Buildering]]
 
*[[Glossary of climbing terms]]
 
*[[Ice Climbing]]
 
*[[Parkour|Le Parkour]]
 
*[[Rock Climbing]]
 
*[[Tree climbing]]
 
 
 
==Notes==
 
{{Commonscat|Bouldering}}
 
{{reflist}}
 
  
 
[[Category:Types of climbing]]
 
[[Category:Types of climbing]]
 
+
[[Category:Articles containing video clips]]
[[cs:Bouldering]]
+
[[Category:Sport climbing]]
[[de:Bouldern]]
 
[[es:Bulder]]
 
[[fr:Escalade sur bloc]]
 
[[it:Bouldering]]
 
[[he:טיפוס בולדרינג]]
 
[[nl:Boulderen]]
 
[[ja:ボルダリング]]
 
[[no:Buldring]]
 
[[pl:Bouldering]]
 
[[pt:Boulder]]
 
[[ru:Боулдеринг]]
 
[[sl:Balvansko plezanje]]
 
[[zh:抱石]]
 

Latest revision as of 16:52, 8 September 2020

[[Category:Template:Pagetype with short description]]

Template:Good article is only for Wikipedia:Good articles.

Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers use climbing shoes to help secure footholds, chalk to keep their hands dry and to provide a firmer grip, and bouldering mats to prevent injuries from falls. Unlike free solo climbing, which is also performed without ropes, bouldering problems (the sequence of moves that a climber performs to complete the climb) are usually less than 6 meters (20 ft.) tall. Traverses, which are a form of boulder problem, require the climber to climb horizontally from one end to another.[1] Artificial climbing walls allow boulderers to climb indoors in areas without natural boulders. In addition, bouldering competitions take place in both indoor and outdoor settings.[2]

The sport was originally a method of training for roped climbs and mountaineering, so climbers could practice specific moves at a safe distance from the ground. Additionally, the sport served to build stamina and increase finger strength. Throughout the 20th century, bouldering evolved into a separate discipline.[3] Individual problems are assigned ratings based on difficulty. Although there have been various rating systems used throughout the history of bouldering, modern problems usually use either the V-scale or the Fontainebleau scale.

The growing popularity of bouldering has caused several environmental concerns, including soil erosion and trampled vegetation, as climbers often hike off-trail to reach bouldering sites. This has caused some landowners to restrict access or prohibit bouldering altogether.

Outdoor bouldering

File:Hueco Tanks - Baby Martini - V6.webm

The largest outdoor bouldering gym in North America, The Cliffs at DUMBO, is located in Brooklyn Bridge Park.[4][5]

The characteristics of boulder problems depend largely on the type of rock being climbed. For example, granite often features long cracks and slabs while sandstone rocks are known for their steep overhangs and frequent horizontal breaks. Limestone and volcanic rock are also used for bouldering.[6]Template:Rp

There are many prominent bouldering areas throughout the United States, including Hueco Tanks in Texas, Mount Evans in Colorado, and The Buttermilks in Bishop, California. Squamish, British Columbia is one of the most popular bouldering areas in Canada.[7] Europe is also home to a number of bouldering sites, such as Fontainebleau in France, Albarracín in Spain, and various mountains throughout Switzerland.[8] Africa's most prominent bouldering areas include the more established Rocklands in South Africa, the newer Oukaimeden in Morocco or more recently opened areas like Chimanimani in Zimbabwe.

Indoor bouldering

An indoor bouldering gym
An indoor bouldering gym

Artificial climbing walls are used to simulate boulder problems in an indoor environment, usually at climbing gyms. These walls are constructed with wooden panels, polymer cement panels, concrete shells, or precast molds of actual rock walls.[9] Holds, usually made of plastic, are then bolted onto the wall to create problems.[6]Template:Rp The walls often feature steep overhanging surfaces which force the climber to employ highly technical movements while supporting much of their weight with their upper body strength.[10]Template:Rp However, in more recent times, many problems set on flat walls now require the climber to execute a series of coordinated movements in order to complete the route. These routes were likely to have originated at the Stuntwerk[11] gym in Germany, and the style of climbing can be said to closely resemble the sport of Parkour. The IFSC Climbing World Championships have noticeably included more of such problems in their competitions as of late.

Climbing gyms often feature multiple problems within the same section of wall. In the US the most common method routesetters use to designate the intended problem is by placing colored tape next to each hold. For example, red tape would indicate one bouldering problem while green tape would be used to set a different problem in the same area.[10]Template:Rp Across much of the rest of the world problems and grades are usually designated using a set color of plastic hold to indicate problems and their difficulty levels. Using colored holds to set has certain advantages, the most notable of which are that it makes it more obvious where the holds for a problem are, and that there is no chance of tape being accidentally kicked off footholds. Smaller, resource-poor climbing gyms may prefer taped problems because large, expensive holds can be used in multiple routes by marking them with more than one color of tape.

Grading

File:Indoor Bouldering V3 Rock Spot.webm

Bouldering problems are assigned numerical difficulty ratings by routesetters and climbers. The two most widely used rating systems are the V-scale and the Fontainebleau system.[12]

The V-scale, which originated in the United States, is an open-ended rating system with higher numbers indicating a higher degree of difficulty. The V1 rating indicates that a problem can be completed by a novice climber in good physical condition after several attempts.[13]Template:Rp The scale begins at V0, and as of 2013, the highest V rating that has been assigned to a bouldering problem is V17.[14] Some climbing gyms also use a VB grade to indicate beginner problems.[15]

The Fontainebleau scale follows a similar system, with each numerical grade divided into three ratings with the letters a, b, and c. For example, Fontainebleau 7A roughly corresponds with V6, while Fontainebleau 7C+ is equivalent to V10.[16] In both systems, grades are further differentiated by appending "+" to indicate a small increase in difficulty. Despite this level of specificity, ratings of individual problems are often controversial, as ability level is not the only factor that affects how difficult a problem may be for a particular climber. Height, arm length, flexibility, and other body characteristics can also be relevant to perceived difficulty.[17]

Highball bouldering

Highball bouldering is simply climbing high, difficult, long, and tall boulders. Using the same protection as standard bouldering, climbers venture up house-sized rocks that test not only their physical skill and strength but mental focus. Highballing, like most of climbing, is open to interpretation. Most climbers say anything above 15 feet is a highball and can range in height up to 35–40 feet where highball bouldering then turns into free soloing.

Highball bouldering may have begun in 1961 when John Gill, without top-rope rehearsal, bouldered a steep face on a 37-foot (11 meter) granite spire called "The Thimble".[18][19][20]

Climber on the Thimble in the 1960s

The difficulty level of this ascent (V4/5 or 5.12a) was extraordinary for that time.[21] Gill's achievement initiated a wave of climbers making ascents of large boulders. Later, with the introduction and evolution of crash pads, climbers were able to push the limits of highball bouldering ever higher.

In 2002 Jason Kehl completed the first highball at double-digit V-difficulty, called Evilution, a 55-foot (16.8 meter) boulder in the Buttermilks of California, earning the grade of V12.[22] This climb marked the beginning of a new generation of highball climbing that pushed not only height, but great difficulty.[citation needed]It is not unusual for climbers to rehearse such risky problems on top-rope, although this practice is not a settled issue.

Groundbreaking ascents in this style include; Ambrosia, a 55-foot (16.8 meter) boulder in Bishop, California, climbed by Kevin Jorgeson in 2015 sporting the grade of V11.[23]

Too Big to Flail, V10, another 55 foot (16.8 meter) line in Bishop, California, climbed by Alex Honnold in 2016.[24]

Livin' Large, a 35-foot V15 in Rocklands, South Africa, found and established by Nalle Hukkataival in 2009, which has been repeated by only one person, Jimmy Webb.[25]

The Process is a 55-foot V16 in Bishop, California, first climbed by Daniel Woods in 2015.[26] The line was worked with another climber, Dan Beal, but a hold broke after Woods's top and the climb has yet to see a second ascent as of Sep 28, 2017. [27]

Competitions

Traditionally, competition in bouldering was informal, with climbers working out problems near the limits of their abilities, then challenging their peers to repeat these accomplishments. However, modern climbing gyms allow for a more formal competitive structure.

The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) employs an indoor format (although competitions can also take place in an outdoor setting[6]Template:Rp) that breaks the competition into three rounds: qualifications, semi-finals, and finals. The rounds feature different sets of four to six boulder problems, and each competitor has a fixed amount of time to attempt each problem. At the end of each round, competitors are ranked by the number of completed problems with ties settled by the total number of attempts taken to solve the problems.[28]

Some competitions only permit climbers a fixed number of attempts at each problem with a timed rest period in between.[29] In an open-format competition, all climbers compete simultaneously, and are given a fixed amount of time to complete as many problems as possible. More points are awarded for more difficult problems, while points are deducted for multiple attempts on the same problem.[30]

A competitor at the 2012 Boulder World Cup

In 2012, the IFSC submitted a proposal to the International Olympic Committee (IOC) to include lead climbing in the 2020 Summer Olympics. The proposal was later revised to an "overall" competition, which would feature bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing.[31] In May 2013, the IOC announced that climbing would not be added to the 2020 Olympic program.[32]

In 2016, the International Olympic Committee (IOC) officially approved climbing as an Olympic sport "in order to appeal to younger audiences." The Olympics will feature the earlier proposed overall competition. Medalists will be competing in all three categories for a best overall score.[33] The score will be calculated by the multiplication of the positions that the climbers have attained in each discipline of climbing.[34]

History

Rock climbing first appeared as a sport in the late-1800s. Early records describe climbers engaging in what is now referred to as bouldering, not as a separate discipline, but as a playful form of training for larger ascents. It was during this time that the words "bouldering" and "problem" first appeared in British climbing literature. Oscar Eckenstein was an early proponent of the activity in the British Isles.[35] In the early 20th century, the Fontainebleau area of France established itself as a prominent climbing area, where some of the first dedicated bleausards (or "boulderers") emerged. One of those athletes, Pierre Allain, invented the specialized shoe used for rock climbing.[36]

Gill on the Scab in the Needles of the Black Hills 1963

In the late 1950s through the 1960s, American mathematician John Gill pushed the sport further and contributed several important innovations, distinguishing bouldering as a separate discipline in the process.[37][38] Gill previously pursued gymnastics, a sport which had an established scale of difficulty for movements and body positions, and shifted the focus of bouldering from reaching the summit to navigating a set of holds.[36] Gill developed a rating system that was closed-ended: B1 problems were as difficult as the most challenging roped routes of the time, B2 problems were more difficult, and B3 problems had been completed once.[13]Template:Rp

Gill introduced chalk as a method of keeping the climber's hands dry, promoted a dynamic climbing style, and emphasized the importance of strength training to complement skill.[39] As Gill improved in ability and influence, his ideas became the norm.[36]

In the 1980s, two important training tools emerged. One important training tool was bouldering mats, also referred to as "crash pads", which protected against injuries from falling and enabled boulderers to climb in areas that would have been too dangerous otherwise. The second important tool was indoor climbing walls, which helped spread the sport to areas without outdoor climbing and allowed serious climbers to train year-round.[36]

As the sport grew in popularity, new bouldering areas were developed throughout Europe and the United States, and more athletes began participating in bouldering competitions. The visibility of the sport greatly increased in the early 2000s, as YouTube videos and climbing blogs helped boulderers around the world to quickly learn techniques, find hard problems, and announce newly completed projects.[36]

Christian Core on Gioia (Varazze, ITA), first 8C+ (V16) boulder in history, 2008
Michael Rael Armas on Midnight Lightning, Camp 4 (Yosemite National Park, USA), one of the world's most famous bouldering problems

Notable ascents

9A (V17) (unconfirmed):

  • Burden of Dreams – Lappnor (FIN) – October 2016 – Grade proposed by Nalle Hukkataival after several years of trials. During these years, Hukkataival "very quickly" solved several 8C and 8C+ boulder problems throughout the world, including Gioia (see below). Compared to these other problems, Burden of Dreams felt "way way harder".[14][40]
  • No Kpote Only - Fontainebleau (FR) - December 2018 - First ascent by Charles Albert (climber); world's second 9A (unconfirmed).[41]. Ryohei Kameyama repeated the climb in March 2019, proposing that the grade might be soft. [42]

8C+ (V16):

  • GioiaVarazze (ITA) – 2008 – First ascent by Italian boulderer Christian Core, who first proposed 8C, "to play things safe". In 2011, Adam Ondra repeated the ascent and wholeheartedly proposed the 8C+ grade, describing the boulder as one of the hardest in the world, together with Terranova (see below).[43]
  • TerranovaHolstejn (Moravsky Kras, CZE) – 10 November 2011 – First ascent by Adam Ondra.[44][45]

8C (V15):

  • The story of two worldsCresciano (SUI) – January 2005 – First confirmed 8C in history, by Dave Graham.[46] Five years earlier, Fred Nicole had proposed 8C for Dreamtime, on the other side of the same boulder, but most repeaters downgraded it to 8b+ (see below).
  • The GameBoulder, Colorado (USA) – 2010 – First ascent by Daniel Woods, who originally graded it 8C+ (V16).[47] Second ascent in 2013 by Carlo Traversi, who proposed 8C (V15).[48][49]
  • Lucid DreamingBishop, California (USA) – 2010 – First ascent by Paul Robinson, who initially graded it 8C+ (V16),[50] and later downgraded it. In 2010, together with The game (see above), this was considered to be one of the world's most challenging boulders. Second ascent by Daniel Woods, who confirmed the 8C (V15) grade.[51]
  • Horizon - Mount Hiei (JPN) - 22 March 2016 - Second ascent and first female ascent by Ashima Shiraishi; world's first female 8C ascent. At the time, Ashima Shiraishi was the youngest person to send 8C. First ascent by Dai Koyamada in 2015.[52]
  • Sleepy Rave - Hollow Mountain Cave, Grampians (AUS) - 2 August 2016 - First female ascent by Ashima Shiraishi; world's second female 8C ascent. First ascent by Dai Koyamada in 2004.[53] Some suggest this problem's rating is really V14.[54][55]
  • Kryptos - Morchelstock, Balsthal (SUI) - June, 2018 - First female ascent by Kaddi Lehmann; world's third female 8C ascent. First ascent by Franz Widmer in 2008.[56]
  • Byaku-dou - Mt. Hourai (JPN) - May, 2019 - First female ascent by Mishka Ishi; world's fourth female 8C ascent. To date, Mishka Ishi is the youngest person to send 8C. First ascent by Dai Koyamada in 2003.[57]

8B+ (V14):

  • DreamtimeCresciano (SUI) – 28 October 2000 – First ascent by Fred Nicole, who proposed an 8C rating, making it the first unconfirmed 8C boulder in history. In 2002, Dave Graham repeated it by finding a different solution. He used a heel-hook to make the brutal start sequence easier, and downgraded the problem to easy 8b+. Most of the following repeaters, including Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Daniel Woods adopted Graham's solution and agreed with him about the grade.[58][59] Notable exceptions are Jan Hojer and Christian Core, who confirmed the 8C rating.[60]
  • Catharsis - Shiobara (JPN) - October, 2012 - First female ascent by Tomoko Ogawa; world's first female 8B+ ascent. First ascent by Dai Koyamada.[61]

7B+ (V8):

Equipment

Unlike other climbing sports, bouldering can be performed safely and effectively with very little equipment, an aspect which makes the discipline highly appealing, but opinions differ.[36] While bouldering pioneer John Sherman asserted that "The only gear really needed to go bouldering is boulders," others suggest the use of climbing shoes and a chalkbag – a small pouch where ground-up chalk is kept – as the bare minimum, and more experienced boulderers typically bring multiple pairs of climbing shoes, chalk, brushes, crash pads, and a skincare kit.[66]Template:Rp [67][36]

A modern climbing shoe manufactured by Quechua

Climbing shoes have the most direct impact on performance. Besides protecting the climber's feet from rough surfaces, climbing shoes are designed to help the climber secure footholds. Climbing shoes typically fit much tighter than other athletic footwear and often curl the toes downwards to enable precise footwork. They are manufactured in a variety of different styles to perform in different situations. For example, High-top shoes provide better protection for the ankle, while low-top shoes provide greater flexibility and freedom of movement. Stiffer shoes excel at securing small edges, whereas softer shoes provide greater sensitivity. The front of the shoe, called the "toe box", can be asymmetric, which performs well on overhanging rocks, or symmetric, which is better suited for vertical problems and slabs.[66]Template:Rp[68][36]

To absorb sweat, most boulderers use gymnastics chalk on their hands, stored in a chalkbag, which can be tied around the waist (also called sport climbing chalkbags), allowing the climber to reapply chalk during the climb.[68] There are also versions of floor chalkbags (also called bouldering chalkbags), which are usually bigger than sport climbing chalkbags and are meant to be kept on the floor while climbing; this is because boulders do not usually have so many movements as to require chalking up more than once. Different sizes of brushes are used to remove excess chalk and debris from boulders in between climbs; they are often attached to the end of a long straight object in order to reach higher holds.[66]Template:Rp Crash pads, also referred to as bouldering mats, are foam cushions placed on the ground to protect climbers from falls.[66]Template:Rp

Safety

Climber with crash pad and spotters for safety

Boulder problems are generally shorter than 20 feet (6.1 m) from ground to top.[1] This makes the sport significantly safer than free solo climbing, which is also performed without ropes, but with no upper limit on the height of the climb.[69] However, minor injuries are common in bouldering, particularly sprained ankles and wrists. Two factors contribute to the frequency of injuries in bouldering: first, boulder problems typically feature more difficult moves than other climbing disciplines, making falls more common. Second, without ropes to arrest the climber's descent, every fall will cause the climber to hit the ground.[13]

To prevent injuries, boulderers position crash pads near the boulder to provide a softer landing, as well as one or more spotters (people watching out for the climber to fall in convenient position) to help redirect the climber towards the pads.[1] Upon landing, boulderers employ falling techniques similar to those used in gymnastics: spreading the impact across the entire body to avoid bone fractures, and positioning limbs to allow joints to move freely throughout the impact.[70]

Technique

Although every type of rock climbing requires a high level of strength and technique, bouldering is the most dynamic form of the sport, requiring the highest level of power and placing considerable strain on the body. Training routines that strengthen fingers and forearms are useful in preventing injuries such as tendonitis and ruptured ligaments.[71]

However, as with other forms of climbing, bouldering technique begins with proper footwork. Leg muscles are significantly stronger than arm muscles; thus, proficient boulderers use their arms to maintain balance and body positioning as much as possible, relying on their legs to push them up the rock.[66]Template:Rp Boulderers also keep their arms straight with their shoulders engaged whenever feasible, allowing their bones to support their body weight rather than their muscles.[72]

Bouldering movements are described as either "static" or "dynamic". Static movements are those that are performed slowly, with the climber's position controlled by maintaining contact on the boulder with the other three limbs. Dynamic movements use the climber's momentum to reach holds that would be difficult or impossible to secure statically, with an increased risk of falling if the movement is not performed accurately.[73]

Environmental impact

Bouldering can damage vegetation that grows on rocks, such as moss and lichens. This can occur as a result of the climber intentionally cleaning the boulder, or unintentionally from repeated use of handholds and footholds. Vegetation on the ground surrounding the boulder can also be damaged from overuse, particularly by climbers laying down crash pads. Soil erosion can occur when boulderers trample vegetation while hiking off of established trails, or when they unearth small rocks near the boulder in an effort to make the landing zone safer in case of a fall.[1]Template:Rp The repeated use of white climbing chalk can damage the rock surface of boulders and cliffs, particularly sandstone and other porous rock types, and the scrubbing of rocks to remove chalk can also degrade the rock surface.[74] In order to prevent chalk from damaging the surface of the rock, it is important to remove it gently with a brush after a rock climbing session. Other environmental concerns include littering, improperly disposed feces, and graffiti. These issues have caused some land managers to prohibit bouldering, as was the case in Tea Garden, a popular bouldering area in Rocklands, South Africa.[75]

References

  1. 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 "Bouldering: Understanding and Managing Climbing on Small Rock Formations" (PDF). The Access Fund. 2006. Archived from the original (PDF) on 29 October 2013. Retrieved 4 August 2013.
  2. See The Boulder: A Philosophy for Bouldering (Stone Country Press) Archived 16 August 2013 at the Wayback Machine, by Francis Sanzaro, for a more on bouldering movement, and its relation to other sports. I also found this article from Sanzaro on bouldering philosophy and landscape, called "When the Earth Enters You – Movement Aesthetics."
  3. Hill, Pete (2008). The Complete Guide to Climbing and Mountaineering. Cincinnati, OH 45236: David&Charles. p. 94. ISBN 978-0-7153-2842-2.CS1 maint: location (link)
  4. https://dumbo.is/hometo/cliffs-at-dumbo
  5. https://www.timeout.com/newyork/news/the-largest-indoor-climbing-gym-in-the-country-is-returning-to-brooklyn-bridge-park-050718[permanent dead link]
  6. 6.0 6.1 6.2 Lourens, Tony (2005). Guide to Climbing. Stackpole Books. ISBN 9780811701525.
  7. Robinson, Victoria (2013). Rock Climbing. ABC-CLIO. pp. 80–81. ISBN 9780313378621.
  8. "Rock climbing in Europe". Climb Europe. 2013. Retrieved 10 August 2013.
  9. Stiehl, Jim & Ramsey, Tim B. (2005). Climbing Walls. Human Kinetics. pp. 49–51. ISBN 9780736048316.
  10. 10.0 10.1 Burbach, Matt (2005). Gym Climbing. The Mountaineers Books. ISBN 9781594854804.
  11. "Trainingsgeräte Klettern, Parkour und Ninja Warrior im Stuntwerk". www.stuntwerk-koeln.de (in German). Retrieved 14 December 2019.[permanent dead link]
  12. Hill, Pete (2008). The Complete Guide to Climbing and Mountaineering. David & Charles. p. 234. ISBN 9780715328422.
  13. 13.0 13.1 13.2 Sherman, John (2001). Sherman Exposed. The Mountaineers Books. ISBN 9781594853968.
  14. 14.0 14.1 Planet Mountain, ed. (24 October 2016). "Nalle Hukkataival climbs Burden of Dreams and proposes world's first 9a boulder problem". Retrieved 25 July 2018.
  15. "Climbing Grades". Spadout. 2012. Archived from the original on 29 October 2013. Retrieved 4 August 2013.
  16. Horan, Bob (2008). Falcon Guides Bouldering Colorado. Globe Pequot. p. 3. ISBN 9780762736386.
  17. Horst, Eric J. (2012). Learning to Climb Indoors (2nd ed.). Globe Pequot. pp. 11–12. ISBN 9780762780051.
  18. >Ament, Pat (2002). Wizards of Rock: A History of Free Climbing in America, Wilderness Press
  19. "Rock Climbing in Custer State Park". Mountain Project. Retrieved 28 March 2018.
  20. "High & Mighty: Part 1".
  21. Climbing Magazine, Millennium Special, March (2000)
  22. "Climb Evilution, Sierra Eastside". Mountain Project. Retrieved 28 March 2018.
  23. "Climb Ambrosia, Sierra Eastside". Mountain Project. Retrieved 28 March 2018.
  24. "Climb Too Big To Flail, Sierra Eastside". Mountain Project. Retrieved 28 March 2018.
  25. "HardClimbs.info | Ascents for Livin' Large". www.hardclimbs.info. Retrieved 28 March 2018.
  26. "Daniel Woods climbs "The Process" a V16 highball in Bishop, CA". 2 February 2015. Retrieved 28 March 2018.
  27. "12 Great Moments in Bouldering History". www.outsideonline.com. Retrieved 7 January 2020.
  28. "IFSC Rules 2013" (PDF). International Federation of Sport Climbing. March 2013. Archived from the original (PDF) on 12 April 2019. Retrieved 25 June 2013.
  29. Hague, Dan & Hunter, Douglas (2011). Redpoint. Stackpole Books. p. 175. ISBN 9780811745079.
  30. Schmid, Stephen E. (2011). Climbing – Philosophy for Everyone. John Wiley & Sons. p. 201. ISBN 9781444341461.
  31. MacDonald, Dougald (20 March 2013). "New Olympic Plan: Climbers Must Compete in Bouldering, Lead, and Speed". Climbing.com. Retrieved 9 July 2013.
  32. "Climbing Out of the Running for Olympic Games". 29 May 2013. Retrieved 9 July 2013.
  33. Corrigan, Kevin. http://www.climbing.com/news/climbing-officially-approved-for-2020-olympics/ N.p., 3 Aug. 2016. Web. 12 Nov. 2016.
  34. Burgman, John. "A Guide to the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Climbing Format". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 14 December 2019.
  35. The Origins of Bouldering. http://www.johngill.net
  36. 36.0 36.1 36.2 36.3 36.4 36.5 36.6 36.7 Beal, Peter (2011). Bouldering: Movement, Tactics, and Problem Solving. The Mountaineers Books. ISBN 9781594855016.
  37. Ament, Pat (1998). John Gill:Master of Rock. Climbing Classics #2, Stackpole Books
  38. Template:YouTube
  39. For more on Gill's bouldering philosophy, see The Boulder: A Philosophy for Bouldering (Stone Country Press) Archived 16 August 2013 at the Wayback Machine, by Francis Sanzaro (Stone Country press, 2013).
  40. "Interview: Nalle Hukkataival – Burden of Dreams (9A bloc)". Relais Vertical. Retrieved 2 September 2017.
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