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[[Image:Eisklettern kl engstligenfall.jpg|right|thumb|200px]]    
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{{about|the activity|the video game|Ice Climber}}
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{{Climbing sidebar |image=Eisklettern kl engstligenfall.jpg |caption=Ice climbing}}
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[[File:Zinal ice climbing.webm|thumb|ice climbing]]
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'''Ice climbing''' is the activity of ascending inclined ice formations. Usually, ice [[climbing]] refers to roped and protected climbing of features such as [[icefall]]s, frozen [[waterfall]]s, and cliffs and rock slabs covered with ice refrozen from flows of water.<ref>{{cite book |last=Chouinard |first=Yvon |title=Climbing Ice |publisher=Sierra Club Books |location=San Francisco |year=1978 |isbn=978-0871562081 |url-access=registration |url=https://archive.org/details/climbingice00chou }}</ref> For the purposes of climbing, ice can be broadly divided into two spheres, alpine ice and water ice. Alpine ice is found in a mountain environment, usually requires an approach to reach, and is often climbed in an attempt to summit a mountain. Water ice is usually found on a cliff or other outcropping beneath water flows. Alpine ice is frozen precipitation whereas water ice is a frozen liquid flow of water.  Most alpine ice is generally one component of a longer route and often less technical, having more in common with standard glacier travel, while water ice is selected largely for its technical challenge. Technical grade is, however, independent of ice type and both types of ice vary greatly in consistency according to weather conditions. Ice can be soft, hard, brittle or tough. [[Mixed climbing]] is ascent involving both ice climbing and [[rock climbing]].<ref name = "lowe">{{cite book |last=Lowe |first=Jeff |title=Ice World: Techniques and Experiences of Modern Ice Climbing |publisher=The Mountaineers |location=Seattle |year=1996}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |edition=First |publisher=Mountaineers Books |isbn=0-89886-769-X |last=Gadd |first=Will |author2=Roger Chayer |title=Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique |date=November 2003}}</ref>
  
'''Ice climbing''', as the term indicates, is the activity of ascending inclined ice formations. Usually, ice [[climbing]] refers to roped and protected climbing of features such as [[icefall]]s, frozen [[waterfall]]s, and cliffs and rock slabs covered with ice refrozen from flows of water. <ref>{{cite book |author=Chouinard, Yvon |title=Climbing Ice |publisher=Sierra Club Books and the American Alpine Club|city=San Francisco |year=1978 |isbn=0-87150-207-3}}</ref> For the purposes of climbing, ice can be broadly divided into two spheres, alpine ice and water ice. Alpine ice is found in a mountain environment, usually requires an approach to reach, and is often climbed in an attempt to summit a mountain. Water ice is usually found on a cliff or other outcropping beneath water flows. Alpine ice is frozen precipitation whereas water ice is a frozen liquid flow of water.  Most alpine ice is generally one component of a longer routes and often less technical, have more in common with standard glacier travel, while water ice is selected largely for its technical challenge.  Still technical grade is independent of ice type and both types of ice vary greatly in consistency according to weather conditions. Ice can be soft, hard, brittle or tough.  A [[mixed climbing]] is when ascending involve both ice climbing and [[rock climbing]].<ref name = "lowe">{{cite book | last = Lowe | first = Jeff | title = Ice World: Techniques and Experiences of Modern Ice Climbing | publisher = The Mountaineers | location = Seattle | year = 1996}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book
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== Techniques ==
| edition = 1
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[[File:1982 expedition to Tartu Ülikool 350 (30).jpg|thumb|left|Ice climbing during ascent to [[Tartu Ülikool 350]] in 1982. Photo by [[Jaan Künnap]].]]
| publisher = Mountaineers Books
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A climber chooses equipment according to the slope and texture of the ice. For example, on flat ice, almost any good hiking or mountaineering boot will usually suffice, but for serious ice climbing double plastic mountaineering boots or their stiff leather equivalent are usually used, which must be [[crampon]] compatible and stiff enough to support the climber and maintain ankle support. On short, low angled slopes, one can use an [[ice axe]] to chop steps. For longer and steeper slopes or [[glacier]] travel, [[crampons]] are mandatory for a safe climb. Vertical ice climbing is done with crampons and ice axes (those specific to vertical ice generally being called technical [[ice axe]]s, or ''[[ice tool]]s''); climbers kick their legs to engage the front points of the crampons in the ice, and then swing the axe into the ice above their heads. This technique is known as [[front pointing]].  The strength of the ice is often surprising; even if the axe goes in only a centimeter or so it is enough to pull up on. If a climber is [[Glossary of climbing terms#Lead climbing|leading]], they will need to place [[ice screw]]s as [[protection (climbing)|protection]] on the way up (see [[climbing system]]). Most mountaineers would only consider the last scenario true ice climbing; the less steep variations are routine aspects of winter [[mountaineering]].
| isbn = 089886769X
 
| last = Gadd
 
| first = Will
 
| coauthors = Roger Chayer
 
| title = Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique
 
| date = 2003-11
 
}}</ref>
 
 
 
== Techniques==
 
[[Image:Ice Climbing.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Top-roping]]
 
A climber chooses equipment according to the slope and texture of the ice. For example, on flat ice, almost any good hiking or mountaineering boot will usually suffice, but for serious ice climbing double plastic mountaineering boots (or their older stiff leather equivalent) are usually used, which must be crampon compatible and stiff enough to support the climber and maintain ankle support. On short, low angled slopes, one can use an [[ice axe]] to chop steps. For longer and steeper slopes or [[glacier]] travel, [[crampons]] are mandatory for a safe climb. Vertical ice climbing is done with crampons and ice axes (those specific to vertical ice generally being called technical ice axes, or ''[[ice tool]]s''); climbers kick their legs to engage the front points of the crampons in the ice, and then swing the axe into the ice above their heads. This technique is known as [[front pointing]].  The strength of the ice is often surprising; even if the axe goes in only a centimeter or so it is enough to pull up on. If a climber is [[Glossary of climbing terms#Lead climbing|leading]], she/he will need to place [[Glossary of climbing terms#Ice screw|ice screws]] as [[protection (climbing)|protection]] on the way up (see [[climbing system]]). Most mountaineers would only consider the last scenario true ice climbing; the less steep variations are routine aspects of winter [[mountaineering]].  
 
  
 
Some important techniques and practices common in [[rock climbing]] that are employed in ice climbing include knowledge of rope systems, tying in, belaying, leading, abseiling, and lowering. Beginners should learn these techniques before attempting to ice climb. It is highly recommended that one acquire knowledge from experts and experienced ice climbers.
 
Some important techniques and practices common in [[rock climbing]] that are employed in ice climbing include knowledge of rope systems, tying in, belaying, leading, abseiling, and lowering. Beginners should learn these techniques before attempting to ice climb. It is highly recommended that one acquire knowledge from experts and experienced ice climbers.
 
=== Rope systems ===
 
  
Single, double, and twin rope are the three main rope systems used in ice climbing. The single rope system, which is suited for straight climbing routes, is the most commonly used system in the world. Also often used in climbing is the double rope system which is a more flexible system than the single rope system. Lastly, the twin rope system, which uses two twin ropes in a single rope system, is used for longer multi-pitch routes. However, this type is not often used in climbing.
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===Rope systems===
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[[File:Ice Climbing at Plattsburg, New York.jpg|thumb|Top-roping.]]
=== Tying in ===
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There are three primary rope systems used in ice climbing: single rope, double rope and twin rope. The single rope system, which is suited for straight climbing routes, is the most commonly used rock climbing system in the world. Also often used in climbing is the double rope system which is a more flexible system than the single rope system. Lastly, the twin rope system, which uses two twin ropes in a single rope system, is used for longer multi-pitch routes. Double and twin rope technique is used more frequently in ice climbing because these systems are more redundant, an important consideration given the number of sharp edges the ice climber carries with him. Impact force on ice is an issue, with double ropes gaining popularity over twins.<ref name="ropesystemsonice">{{cite web | url = http://www.climbingextreme.com/2012/01/ice-climbing-ropes-and-single-vs-half/933 | title = Climbing Extreme: Ice climbing, ropes and single vs. half | author = climbingextreme.com, Juho Risku | date = January 2012 | accessdate = 2012-01-21 | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20120519032556/http://www.climbingextreme.com/2012/01/ice-climbing-ropes-and-single-vs-half/933 | archive-date = 2012-05-19 | url-status = dead }}</ref>
  
Tying in entails attaching your rope to the climbing harness. This technique is a must particularly when leading a climb or belaying. The commonly used tie-in knot is the [[Figure-of-eight follow through]]. Once you tie-in, you will create a belay loop which will contain your belay device when needed. This technique should be done properly to ensure your safety when ice climbing.
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===Tying in===
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Tying in entails attaching the rope to the climbing harness. This technique is a must particularly when leading a climb or belaying. A commonly used tie-in knot is the [[Figure-of-eight follow through]], but the [[Bowline]] and Thumb (stopper) knot is often preferred, since it is easier to untie when frozen. This technique should be done properly to ensure your safety when ice climbing.
=== Belaying===
 
 
In this climbing technique, you are going to use either running belays or fixed belays. A running belay on ice is similar to a running belay on rock or snow. The leader of the climb puts protection and clips the rope through it. The next climber puts away the protection. There should be at least two points of protection between the leader and the next climber. Fixed
 
belays, on the other hand, require a belayer, belay anchor, and points of protection. A belay anchor is attached to a cliff in supporting a belay or toprope. In using either a running- or fixed belay, it is necessary that you have enough knowledge on boot/ice-screw belay techniques.
 
  
=== Leading ===
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===Belaying===
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In this climbing technique, either running belays or fixed belays are used. A running belay on ice is similar to a running belay on rock as well as snow. The leader of the climb puts protection and clips the rope through it. The next climber puts away the protection. There should be at least two points of protection between the leader and the next climber. Fixed belays, on the other hand, require a belayer, belay anchor, and points of protection. A belay anchor is attached to a cliff in supporting a belay or toprope. In using either a running- or fixed belay, it is necessary that you have enough knowledge on boot/ice-screw belay techniques.
  
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===Leading===
 
Leading refers to the act of leading a climb and thus, requires a leader and a follower. This ice climbing technique entails putting protection while ascending. In doing so, leading is done in sections. The leader places the protection as he/she climbs until he/she reaches the top of a ''pitch''. At the top, the leader builds a belay anchor with which to belay the second climber. While the second climbs, he/she removes the protection placed by the leader. When the second climber finishes, they both proceed to the second pitch.
 
Leading refers to the act of leading a climb and thus, requires a leader and a follower. This ice climbing technique entails putting protection while ascending. In doing so, leading is done in sections. The leader places the protection as he/she climbs until he/she reaches the top of a ''pitch''. At the top, the leader builds a belay anchor with which to belay the second climber. While the second climbs, he/she removes the protection placed by the leader. When the second climber finishes, they both proceed to the second pitch.
  
=== Abseiling ===
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===Abseiling===
 
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Also called rappelling, [[abseiling]] uses a fixed rope to descend. In distinction to being lowered, abseiling allows the climber to control his or her own speed and rate of descent. This technique may be used not only after a climb, but also when trying new climbing routes and when the climb can only be accessed from the top. Careful execution is important when abseiling; ropes may become jammed or be severed by sharp edges. Climbers can perform a fireman's [[belay]] or use an auto block for extra protection while abseiling.<ref>http://www.rockandice.com/gear-guide-tips/rappel-safety-tips</ref>
Also called rappelling, [[abseiling]] uses a fixed rope to descend. This technique is not only used to go down after a climb. It can also be used when trying new climbing routes and when there is a seemingly difficult access to the start of a climb. Careful execution is important in doing abseiling. There are the possibilities of jammed ropes, ropes becoming severed after getting in contact with sharp edges, and other cases of equipment failure.
 
 
=== Lowering ===
 
  
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===Lowering===
 
Lowering is one of the most common methods of getting down. A belayer at the base of the vertical wall ensures that the climber is lowered safely. This climbing technique is used when going down routes where there are short, steep walls. This is also used when you want to go down faster.
 
Lowering is one of the most common methods of getting down. A belayer at the base of the vertical wall ensures that the climber is lowered safely. This climbing technique is used when going down routes where there are short, steep walls. This is also used when you want to go down faster.
  
 
These are the different techniques used in climbing activities. Keep in mind, though, that it is very crucial to learn these skills from expert climbers before attempting them yourself.
 
These are the different techniques used in climbing activities. Keep in mind, though, that it is very crucial to learn these skills from expert climbers before attempting them yourself.
  
== Protecting ice ==
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== Competition ==
 
 
[[Image:Ice screw.jpg|thumb|Ice screw]]
 
Today the most common protection for ice climbing is an [[ice screw]]. Ice screws are hollow tubes with sharp teeth on the front end, a hanger eye at the back to clip into, and threading around the tube. They are screwed into the ice and can provide very strong protection in solid ice.<ref name="lowe"/> However, because of the variable nature of ice, the strength of ice screw placements can vary greatly.<ref name="freedom">{{cite book | edition = 7 | editor = Cox, Steven M. and Kris Fulsaas, ed. | title = [[Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills]] | publisher = The Mountaineers | isbn = 0898868289| location = Seattle | year = 2003-09}}</ref>
 
  
Ice climbers also use the ice itself as protection. The two most common of such techniques are the [[Abalakov thread|V-Thread]] (also known as the [[Abalakov thread|"Abalokov" anchor]], named after a Russian climber who popularised the technique) and the ice bollard. The V-thread is a method of protection in which two tunnels are bored into the ice so that they intersect at their ends, forming a "V" shaped tunnel in the ice. A sling or cordelette (rope used in anchors) is threaded through the tunnel and tied making a loop that is tied into the ice. An ice bollard is made when an horse-shoe shaped furrow is carved into less than vertical ice with the open end down. A lip is then sculpted in the lower wall of the furrow so that a loop of rope can be placed in the furrow that will stay in place in a somewhat less severe version of a loop of rope around saddle horn.<ref name="freedom"/>
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The [[International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation|International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA)]] organizes an annual [[UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup|Ice Climbing World Cup]] and bi-annual [[UIAA Ice Climbing World Championships|Ice Climbing World Championships]].<ref name="uiaa-about-ice-climbing">{{cite-web | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190527011510/https://www.theuiaa.org/ice-climbing/about-ice-climbing/ | url=https://www.theuiaa.org/ice-climbing/about-ice-climbing/ | archive-date=May 27, 2019 | title=About Ice Climbing - UIAA | publisher=UIAA}}</ref><ref>{{cite-web| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180316095834/http://www.theuiaa.org/ice-climbing-resultscentre | url=http://www.theuiaa.org/ice-climbing-resultscentre | title=UIAA Ice Climbing – Results Archive – UIAA | publisher=UIAA | archive-date=Mar 16, 2018}}</ref>
  
Natural formations, as well as ice hooks and ice pitons are also used as protection anchors by ice climbers.
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Climbers can compete in the categories [[Lead climbing|Lead]] and [[Speed climbing|Speed]].<ref name="uiaa-about-ice-climbing" />
  
== Ice climbing grades ==
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== Climbing protection ==
=== Waterfall ice grading ===
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[[Image:Ice screw.jpg|thumb|Ice screw.]]
This discussion focuses on the waterfall ice rating system as used in the Canadian Rockies.
 
  
Testpiece examples are given. Note that ice grading, even more so than other climbing media, tends to be subjective and often does not reflect the difficulty of a route at any given time. Routes become much easier after the first ascent of the season. This is due to the cleaning of chandeliered ice and creation of "hooks", which are pockets formed by the tools' picks, reducing the effort expended in cleaning and tool placement.
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Today the most common [[Climbing protection|protection]] for ice climbing is an [[ice screw]]. Ice screws are hollow tubes with sharp teeth on the front end, a hanger eye at the back to clip into, and threading around the tube. They are screwed into the ice and can provide very strong protection in solid ice.<ref name="lowe"/> However, because of the variable nature of ice, the strength of ice screw placements can vary greatly.<ref name="freedom">{{Cite book|title=[[Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills]]|publisher=The Mountaineers Books|location=Seattle |pages= |origyear=1960 |edition=7th |isbn=978-0898868289 |editor=Steven M. Cox and Kris Fulsaas |year=2003 |quote= |ref= }}</ref>
  
Routes with high-flow seeps also tend to become easier as the season progresses due to the increase in volume of ice. Low-flow seeps, however (e.g. French Reality, Banff; Moonlight/Snowline, Kananaskis), often form early in the season (September-November) when the flow is good from latent summer heat, and then slow down or even stop with the deepening winter frost; subsequent ablation (and destruction by climbing) of the ice often makes for thinner and brittler ice with time.
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Ice climbers also use the ice itself as protection. The two most common of such techniques are the [[Abalakov thread|V-Thread]] (also known as the [[Abalakov thread|"Abalakov" anchor]], named after a Russian climber who popularised the technique) and the ice bollard.  In a V-thread two intersecting tunnels are bored into the ice to form a "V" shaped tunnel. A sling or cordelette is then threaded through the V and tied in a loop.  The rope is passed through the sling, which remains left behind after use.<ref name="freedom"/>
  
Grading in the Canadian Rockies, especially recently, focuses on the steepness of a pitch, and NOT on the more subjective "feeling of difficulty" (mental aspects, e.g. protectability, exposure, commitment, etc.) or "technical difficulty" (e.g. chandeliers, bonding, etc.) during the first ascent. Hence the downgrading of several notorious routes, e.g. Sea of Vapours, which were in poor conditions during the first ascents.  
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In an ice bollard ice is chipped away to create a teardrop shaped "bollard". A sling is placed around it, and the rope through the sling, which again is left behind.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://blog.alpineinstitute.com/2011/01/ice-bollard.html|title=The Ice Bollard|first=American Alpine|last=Institute|website=alpineinstitute.com|accessdate=29 March 2019}}</ref> When ice conditions permit the sling may be dispensed with.
  
A common use of the "+" designation is to indicate a higher level of technicality than is typical for the grade (e.g. chandeliers, poor bonding, etc.) that is consistent from year to year (i.e Wicked Wanda, WI4+, has vicious mushrooms on an otherwise low-angled route, and these features always exist from year to year, probably due to the winds).
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Natural formations, ice hooks, and ice pitons are also used as protection anchors by ice climbers.
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[[Image:Iceclimbinganchor.jpg|thumb|Ice climbing anchor with two ice screws.]]
  
Finally, Canadian Rockies WI grading does NOT have anything to do with whether a climb is multi-pitch or not. Therefore, a 4-pitch WI5 is not granted WI6 just because it's long, and likewise a 4-pitch WI6 is not given WI7.
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== Grades ==
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[[File:Canadian Rockies - Oh le tabernacle.jpg|156x240px|thumbnail|Lead climbing in the Canadian Rockies at frozen waterfall]]
  
'''WI2''' - low-angled (60 degree consistent ice), with good technique can be easily climbed with one [[ice axe]]. Grades beyond this generally require the use of two [[ice tool]]s.
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===Waterfall ice grading===
 +
This discussion focuses on the waterfall ice rating system as used in the Canadian Rockies.
  
'''WI3''' - generally sustained in the 60-70 degree range with occasional near-vertical steps up to 4 metres (Cascade Waterfall, Banff; This House of Sky, Ghost River)
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Testpiece examples are given. Note that ice grading, even more so than other climbing media, tends to be subjective and often does not reflect the difficulty of a route at any given time. Routes become much easier after the first ascent of the season. This is due to the cleaning of chandeliered ice and creation of "hooks", which are pockets formed by the tools' picks, reducing the effort expended in cleaning and tool placement.
  
'''WI4''' - near-vertical steps of up to 10 metres, generally sustained climbing requiring placing protection screws from strenuous stances (Professor's Falls, Banff; Weeping Wall Left, Icefields Parkway, Banff; Silk Tassle, Yoho; Moonlight & Snowline, Kananskis)
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Routes with high-flow seeps also tend to become easier as the season progresses due to the increase in volume of ice. Low-flow seeps, however (e.g. French Reality, Banff; Moonlight/Snowline, Kananaskis), often form early in the season (September–November) when the flow is good from latent summer heat, and then slow down or even stop with the deepening winter frost; subsequent ablation (and destruction by climbing) of the ice often makes for thinner and brittler ice with time.
  
'''WI4+''' - highly technical WI4. (Wicked Wanda, Ghost River)
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Grading in the Canadian Rockies, especially recently, focuses on the steepness of a pitch rather than the more subjective "feeling of difficulty" (mental aspects, e.g. protectability, [[exposure (heights)|exposure]] , commitment, etc.) or "technical difficulty" (e.g. chandeliers, bonding, etc.) during the first ascent. Hence the downgrading of several notorious routes, e.g. Sea of Vapours, which were in poor conditions during the first ascents.
  
'''WI5''' - near-vertical or vertical steps of up to 20 metres, sustained climbing requiring placing multiple protection screws from strenuous stances with few good rests (Carlsberg Column, Field; The Sorcerer, Ghost River; Bourgeau Left Hand, Banff)
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A common use of the "+" designation is to indicate a higher level of technicality than is typical for the grade (e.g. chandeliers, poor bonding, etc.) that is consistent from year to year (i.e. Wicked Wanda, WI4+, has vicious mushrooms on an otherwise low-angled route, and these features always exist from year to year, probably due to the winds).
  
'''WI5+''' - highly technical WI5 (Oh le Tabernac, Icefield Parkway; Hydrophobia, Ghost River; Sacre Bleu, Banff)
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Finally, Canadian Rockies WI grading does not have anything to do with whether a climb is multi-pitch or not. Therefore, a 4-pitch WI5 is not granted WI6 just because it's long, and likewise a 4-pitch WI6 is not given WI7.
  
'''WI6''' - vertical climbing for the entire pitch (e.g. 30-60 metres) with no rests. Requires excellent technique and/or a high level of fitness (The Terminator, Banff; Nemesis, Kootenay Park; Whiteman Falls, Kananaskis Country; Riptide, Banff)
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'''WI2''' – low-angled (60 degree consistent ice), with good technique can be easily climbed with one [[ice axe]]. Grades beyond this generally require the use of two [[ice tool]]s.
  
'''WI6+''' - vertical or overhanging with no rests, and highly technical WI6 (French Maid, Yoho; French Reality, Kootenay Park)
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'''WI3''' – generally sustained in the 60–70 degree range with occasional near-vertical steps up to 4 metres (Cascade Waterfall, Banff; This House of Sky, Ghost River)
  
'''WI7''' - sustained and overhanging with no rests. Extremely rare, near-mythical, and widely accepted testpiece examples of this grade don't exist in the Canadian Rockies. Note that many routes (e.g. Sea of Vapours, Banff; Riptide, Icefield Parkway, Banff) have been assigned WI7- to WI7+ but have been subsequently downgraded in later years as they don't meet the strict criteria of steepness. In fact some local ice climbers have argued for Sea of Vapours (WI7+ originally) to be downgraded to WI5 or even WI4 simply because it's not steep enough.
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'''WI4''' near-vertical steps of up to 10 metres, generally sustained climbing requiring placing protection screws from strenuous stances (Professor's Falls, Banff; [[Weeping Wall (Alberta)|Weeping Wall]] Left, Icefields Parkway; Silk Tassle, Yoho; Moonlight & Snowline, Kananaskis)
  
See Alpinist's Climbing Grades section for a variation on this discussion: http://www.alpinist.com/p//climbing_notes/grades
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'''WI4+''' – highly technical WI4. (Wicked Wanda, Ghost River)
  
=== Mixed ice grading ===
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'''WI5''' – near-vertical or vertical steps of up to 20 metres, sustained climbing requiring placing multiple protection screws from strenuous stances with few good rests (Carlsberg Column, Field; The Sorcerer, Ghost River; Bourgeau Left Hand, Banff)
[[Mixed climbing]] has its own grading scale that roughly follows the WI rating system with respect to its physical and technical demands. Typically starts at M4. Subgrades of "-" and "+" are commonly used, although the distinctions are typically very subjective. The following table makes a comparison with the WI system and the Yosemite Decimal System. Comparing these is rough, and only gives an idea of the relative difficulty; the reason different systems exist in the first place is because it's difficult to compare grades between climbing media.
 
  
'''M4''' - 5.8 - WI4 - slabby to vertical, some technical drytooling
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'''WI5+''' – highly technical WI5 (Oh le Tabernac, Icefield Parkway; Hydrophobia, Ghost River; Sacre Bleu, Banff; Stairway to Heaven, [[Provo Canyon]])
  
'''M5''' - 5.9 - WI5 - some sections of sustained drytooling
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'''WI6''' – vertical climbing for the entire pitch (e.g. 30–60 metres) with no rests. Requires excellent technique and/or a high level of fitness (The Terminator, Banff; Nemesis, Kootenay Park; Whiteman Falls, Kananaskis Country; Riptide, Banff)
  
'''M6''' - 5.10 - WI6 - vertical to overhanging with some difficult drytooling
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'''WI6+''' vertical or overhanging with no rests, and highly technical WI6 (Fosslimonster, Norway; French Maid, Yoho; French Reality, Kootenay Park)
  
'''M7''' - 5.11 - WI7 - overhanging, powerful and technical drytooling, &lt;10 m of "hard" climbing
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'''WI7''' – sustained and overhanging with no rests. Extremely rare; widely accepted testpiece examples of this grade do not exist in the Canadian Rockies (e.g. Sea of Vapours, Banff; Riptide, Icefield Parkway, Banff)
  
'''M8''' - 5.11+ - bouldery or longer cruxes than M7, some horizontal overhangs
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See<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/p//climbing_notes/grades|title=Climbing Grades - Alpinist.com|website=www.alpinist.com|accessdate=29 March 2019}}</ref> for a variation on this discussion.
  
'''M9''' - 5.12- - vertical or steeper with sustained marginal or highly technical drytooling; or horizontal and juggy for up to a few body lengths.
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===Mixed ice grading===
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{|class="wikitable floatright" border="1" cellspacing="0" style="text-align: center; font-size:86%;"
 +
|-
 +
!width=70px|[[Grade (climbing)|YDS]]
 +
!width=70px|[[Grade (bouldering)|Hueco]]
 +
!width=70px|Mixed
 +
|-
 +
|5.8||V0−||M4
 +
|-
 +
|5.9||V0||M5
 +
|-
 +
|5.10a||rowspan="2"|V0+||rowspan="4" | M6
 +
|-
 +
|5.10b
 +
|-
 +
|5.10c||rowspan="2"|V1
 +
|-
 +
|5.10d
 +
|-
 +
|5.11a||rowspan="2"|V2||rowspan="2"|M7
 +
|-
 +
|5.11b
 +
|-
 +
|5.11c||rowspan="2"|V3||rowspan="4" | M8
 +
|-
 +
|5.11d
 +
|-
 +
|5.12a||V4
 +
|-
 +
|5.12b||rowspan="2"|V5
 +
|-
 +
|5.12c||rowspan="4" | M9
 +
|-
 +
|5.12d||V6
 +
|-
 +
|5.13a||V7
 +
|-
 +
|5.13b||rowspan="2"|V8
 +
|-
 +
|5.13c||rowspan="4"|M10
 +
|-
 +
|5.13d||V9
 +
|-
 +
|5.14a||V10
 +
|-
 +
|5.14b||V11
 +
|-
 +
|5.14c||V12||rowspan="3"|M11
 +
|-
 +
|5.14d||V13
 +
|-
 +
|5.15a||V14
 +
|-
 +
|5.15b||V15||M12
 +
|-
 +
|5.15c||V16||M13
 +
|}
 +
[[Mixed climbing]] has its own grading scale that roughly follows the WI rating system with respect to its physical and technical demands. Typically starts at M4. Subgrades of "−" and "+" are commonly used, although the distinctions are typically very subjective. The following table makes a comparison with the WI system and the Yosemite Decimal System. Comparing these is rough, and only gives an idea of the relative difficulty; the reason different systems exist in the first place is because it's difficult to compare grades between climbing media.
  
'''M10''' - 5.12
+
== References==
 
 
'''M11''' - 5.12+
 
 
 
'''M12''' - 5.13-
 
 
 
See Alpinist's Climbing Grades section for a variation on this discussion: http://www.alpinist.com/p//climbing_notes/grades
 
 
 
==References==
 
 
{{reflist}}
 
{{reflist}}
  
 
== External links ==
 
== External links ==
{{commonscat|Ice climbing}}
+
{{commons category-inline}}
 +
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20081102212246/http://www.theuiaa.org/ice_climbing.html International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA)]
 +
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20070509011542/http://www.abc-of-iceclimbing.com/info/iceclimbing-techniques.asp Ice Climbing Techniques and Skills]
 +
*[http://theuiaa.org/documents/sport/A5-IceClimbing-Brochure_v18-02-2016.pdf]
 +
*[http://www.equinoxguidingservice.com Learn to Ice Climb]
  
*UIAA - International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation - http://theuiaa.org/ice_climbing.html
+
{{Climbing navbox}}
*m9entertainment - [http://www.m9ice.com Fast & Furious Mixed Ice Climbing Media & Podcasts]
+
{{Extreme sports}}
*Gravsports - [http://gravsports.com/Ice%20Pages%20Folder/ice%20Home%20Pages.htm Canadian Rockies Ice Climbing Information]
+
{{Ice}}
*[http://www.freedigitalphotos.net/gallery.php?gid=171 Ice climbing photos]
+
{{Portal bar|Climbing}}
*[http://www.verticalresources.org Vertical Resources - information on mountaineering, ice and rock climbing. Based in New Zealand]
 
*[http://www.abc-of-iceclimbing.com/info/iceclimbing-techniques.asp Ice Climbing Techniques and Skills]
 
*[http://www.anjaandtom.net/ice0405 Photos iceclimbing in Switzerland]
 
*[http://www.anjaandtom.net/ice0506 Photos iceclimbing in Switzerland]
 
*[http://www.envisionogden.org/Articles/IceWallArticle.php Refrigerated ice-climbing wall in Utah]
 
*[http://thegearjunkie.com/ice-climbing-equipment Ice Climbing Equipment - review/overview of basics]
 
*[http://www.ericandlucie.com/Website2003/Canadian%20Ice/CanadianIce.htm Ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies from ericandlucie.com]
 
 
 
{{Extreme Sports}}
 
  
 +
[[Category:Ice climbing| ]]
 
[[Category:Types of climbing]]
 
[[Category:Types of climbing]]
 
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[[Category:Articles containing video clips]]
[[de:Eisklettern]]
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[[Category:Ice sports]]
[[es:Escalada en hielo]]
 
[[fa:یخ‌نوردی]]
 
[[fr:Escalade glaciaire]]
 
[[nl:IJsklimmen]]
 
[[no:Isklatring]]
 
[[pl:Wspinaczka lodowa]]
 
[[ru:Ледолазание]]
 
[[sl:Ledno plezanje]]
 
[[fi:Jääkiipeily]]
 

Latest revision as of 16:53, 8 September 2020

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File:Zinal ice climbing.webm Ice climbing is the activity of ascending inclined ice formations. Usually, ice climbing refers to roped and protected climbing of features such as icefalls, frozen waterfalls, and cliffs and rock slabs covered with ice refrozen from flows of water.[1] For the purposes of climbing, ice can be broadly divided into two spheres, alpine ice and water ice. Alpine ice is found in a mountain environment, usually requires an approach to reach, and is often climbed in an attempt to summit a mountain. Water ice is usually found on a cliff or other outcropping beneath water flows. Alpine ice is frozen precipitation whereas water ice is a frozen liquid flow of water. Most alpine ice is generally one component of a longer route and often less technical, having more in common with standard glacier travel, while water ice is selected largely for its technical challenge. Technical grade is, however, independent of ice type and both types of ice vary greatly in consistency according to weather conditions. Ice can be soft, hard, brittle or tough. Mixed climbing is ascent involving both ice climbing and rock climbing.[2][3]

Techniques

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Ice climbing during ascent to Tartu Ülikool 350 in 1982. Photo by Jaan Künnap.

A climber chooses equipment according to the slope and texture of the ice. For example, on flat ice, almost any good hiking or mountaineering boot will usually suffice, but for serious ice climbing double plastic mountaineering boots or their stiff leather equivalent are usually used, which must be crampon compatible and stiff enough to support the climber and maintain ankle support. On short, low angled slopes, one can use an ice axe to chop steps. For longer and steeper slopes or glacier travel, crampons are mandatory for a safe climb. Vertical ice climbing is done with crampons and ice axes (those specific to vertical ice generally being called technical ice axes, or ice tools); climbers kick their legs to engage the front points of the crampons in the ice, and then swing the axe into the ice above their heads. This technique is known as front pointing. The strength of the ice is often surprising; even if the axe goes in only a centimeter or so it is enough to pull up on. If a climber is leading, they will need to place ice screws as protection on the way up (see climbing system). Most mountaineers would only consider the last scenario true ice climbing; the less steep variations are routine aspects of winter mountaineering.

Some important techniques and practices common in rock climbing that are employed in ice climbing include knowledge of rope systems, tying in, belaying, leading, abseiling, and lowering. Beginners should learn these techniques before attempting to ice climb. It is highly recommended that one acquire knowledge from experts and experienced ice climbers.

Rope systems

There are three primary rope systems used in ice climbing: single rope, double rope and twin rope. The single rope system, which is suited for straight climbing routes, is the most commonly used rock climbing system in the world. Also often used in climbing is the double rope system which is a more flexible system than the single rope system. Lastly, the twin rope system, which uses two twin ropes in a single rope system, is used for longer multi-pitch routes. Double and twin rope technique is used more frequently in ice climbing because these systems are more redundant, an important consideration given the number of sharp edges the ice climber carries with him. Impact force on ice is an issue, with double ropes gaining popularity over twins.[4]

Tying in

Tying in entails attaching the rope to the climbing harness. This technique is a must particularly when leading a climb or belaying. A commonly used tie-in knot is the Figure-of-eight follow through, but the Bowline and Thumb (stopper) knot is often preferred, since it is easier to untie when frozen. This technique should be done properly to ensure your safety when ice climbing.

Belaying

In this climbing technique, either running belays or fixed belays are used. A running belay on ice is similar to a running belay on rock as well as snow. The leader of the climb puts protection and clips the rope through it. The next climber puts away the protection. There should be at least two points of protection between the leader and the next climber. Fixed belays, on the other hand, require a belayer, belay anchor, and points of protection. A belay anchor is attached to a cliff in supporting a belay or toprope. In using either a running- or fixed belay, it is necessary that you have enough knowledge on boot/ice-screw belay techniques.

Leading

Leading refers to the act of leading a climb and thus, requires a leader and a follower. This ice climbing technique entails putting protection while ascending. In doing so, leading is done in sections. The leader places the protection as he/she climbs until he/she reaches the top of a pitch. At the top, the leader builds a belay anchor with which to belay the second climber. While the second climbs, he/she removes the protection placed by the leader. When the second climber finishes, they both proceed to the second pitch.

Abseiling

Also called rappelling, abseiling uses a fixed rope to descend. In distinction to being lowered, abseiling allows the climber to control his or her own speed and rate of descent. This technique may be used not only after a climb, but also when trying new climbing routes and when the climb can only be accessed from the top. Careful execution is important when abseiling; ropes may become jammed or be severed by sharp edges. Climbers can perform a fireman's belay or use an auto block for extra protection while abseiling.[5]

Lowering

Lowering is one of the most common methods of getting down. A belayer at the base of the vertical wall ensures that the climber is lowered safely. This climbing technique is used when going down routes where there are short, steep walls. This is also used when you want to go down faster.

These are the different techniques used in climbing activities. Keep in mind, though, that it is very crucial to learn these skills from expert climbers before attempting them yourself.

Competition

The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) organizes an annual Ice Climbing World Cup and bi-annual Ice Climbing World Championships.[6][7]

Climbers can compete in the categories Lead and Speed.[6]

Climbing protection

Error creating thumbnail:
Ice screw.

Today the most common protection for ice climbing is an ice screw. Ice screws are hollow tubes with sharp teeth on the front end, a hanger eye at the back to clip into, and threading around the tube. They are screwed into the ice and can provide very strong protection in solid ice.[2] However, because of the variable nature of ice, the strength of ice screw placements can vary greatly.[8]

Ice climbers also use the ice itself as protection. The two most common of such techniques are the V-Thread (also known as the "Abalakov" anchor, named after a Russian climber who popularised the technique) and the ice bollard. In a V-thread two intersecting tunnels are bored into the ice to form a "V" shaped tunnel. A sling or cordelette is then threaded through the V and tied in a loop. The rope is passed through the sling, which remains left behind after use.[8]

In an ice bollard ice is chipped away to create a teardrop shaped "bollard". A sling is placed around it, and the rope through the sling, which again is left behind.[9] When ice conditions permit the sling may be dispensed with.

Natural formations, ice hooks, and ice pitons are also used as protection anchors by ice climbers.

Ice climbing anchor with two ice screws.

Grades

File:Canadian Rockies - Oh le tabernacle.jpg
Lead climbing in the Canadian Rockies at frozen waterfall

Waterfall ice grading

This discussion focuses on the waterfall ice rating system as used in the Canadian Rockies.

Testpiece examples are given. Note that ice grading, even more so than other climbing media, tends to be subjective and often does not reflect the difficulty of a route at any given time. Routes become much easier after the first ascent of the season. This is due to the cleaning of chandeliered ice and creation of "hooks", which are pockets formed by the tools' picks, reducing the effort expended in cleaning and tool placement.

Routes with high-flow seeps also tend to become easier as the season progresses due to the increase in volume of ice. Low-flow seeps, however (e.g. French Reality, Banff; Moonlight/Snowline, Kananaskis), often form early in the season (September–November) when the flow is good from latent summer heat, and then slow down or even stop with the deepening winter frost; subsequent ablation (and destruction by climbing) of the ice often makes for thinner and brittler ice with time.

Grading in the Canadian Rockies, especially recently, focuses on the steepness of a pitch rather than the more subjective "feeling of difficulty" (mental aspects, e.g. protectability, exposure , commitment, etc.) or "technical difficulty" (e.g. chandeliers, bonding, etc.) during the first ascent. Hence the downgrading of several notorious routes, e.g. Sea of Vapours, which were in poor conditions during the first ascents.

A common use of the "+" designation is to indicate a higher level of technicality than is typical for the grade (e.g. chandeliers, poor bonding, etc.) that is consistent from year to year (i.e. Wicked Wanda, WI4+, has vicious mushrooms on an otherwise low-angled route, and these features always exist from year to year, probably due to the winds).

Finally, Canadian Rockies WI grading does not have anything to do with whether a climb is multi-pitch or not. Therefore, a 4-pitch WI5 is not granted WI6 just because it's long, and likewise a 4-pitch WI6 is not given WI7.

WI2 – low-angled (60 degree consistent ice), with good technique can be easily climbed with one ice axe. Grades beyond this generally require the use of two ice tools.

WI3 – generally sustained in the 60–70 degree range with occasional near-vertical steps up to 4 metres (Cascade Waterfall, Banff; This House of Sky, Ghost River)

WI4 – near-vertical steps of up to 10 metres, generally sustained climbing requiring placing protection screws from strenuous stances (Professor's Falls, Banff; Weeping Wall Left, Icefields Parkway; Silk Tassle, Yoho; Moonlight & Snowline, Kananaskis)

WI4+ – highly technical WI4. (Wicked Wanda, Ghost River)

WI5 – near-vertical or vertical steps of up to 20 metres, sustained climbing requiring placing multiple protection screws from strenuous stances with few good rests (Carlsberg Column, Field; The Sorcerer, Ghost River; Bourgeau Left Hand, Banff)

WI5+ – highly technical WI5 (Oh le Tabernac, Icefield Parkway; Hydrophobia, Ghost River; Sacre Bleu, Banff; Stairway to Heaven, Provo Canyon)

WI6 – vertical climbing for the entire pitch (e.g. 30–60 metres) with no rests. Requires excellent technique and/or a high level of fitness (The Terminator, Banff; Nemesis, Kootenay Park; Whiteman Falls, Kananaskis Country; Riptide, Banff)

WI6+ – vertical or overhanging with no rests, and highly technical WI6 (Fosslimonster, Norway; French Maid, Yoho; French Reality, Kootenay Park)

WI7 – sustained and overhanging with no rests. Extremely rare; widely accepted testpiece examples of this grade do not exist in the Canadian Rockies (e.g. Sea of Vapours, Banff; Riptide, Icefield Parkway, Banff)

See[10] for a variation on this discussion.

Mixed ice grading

YDS Hueco Mixed
5.8 V0− M4
5.9 V0 M5
5.10a V0+ M6
5.10b
5.10c V1
5.10d
5.11a V2 M7
5.11b
5.11c V3 M8
5.11d
5.12a V4
5.12b V5
5.12c M9
5.12d V6
5.13a V7
5.13b V8
5.13c M10
5.13d V9
5.14a V10
5.14b V11
5.14c V12 M11
5.14d V13
5.15a V14
5.15b V15 M12
5.15c V16 M13

Mixed climbing has its own grading scale that roughly follows the WI rating system with respect to its physical and technical demands. Typically starts at M4. Subgrades of "−" and "+" are commonly used, although the distinctions are typically very subjective. The following table makes a comparison with the WI system and the Yosemite Decimal System. Comparing these is rough, and only gives an idea of the relative difficulty; the reason different systems exist in the first place is because it's difficult to compare grades between climbing media.

References

  1. Chouinard, Yvon (1978). Climbing Ice. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books. ISBN 978-0871562081.
  2. 2.0 2.1 Lowe, Jeff (1996). Ice World: Techniques and Experiences of Modern Ice Climbing. Seattle: The Mountaineers.
  3. Gadd, Will; Roger Chayer (November 2003). Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique (First ed.). Mountaineers Books. ISBN 0-89886-769-X.
  4. climbingextreme.com, Juho Risku (January 2012). "Climbing Extreme: Ice climbing, ropes and single vs. half". Archived from the original on 2012-05-19. Retrieved 2012-01-21.
  5. http://www.rockandice.com/gear-guide-tips/rappel-safety-tips
  6. 6.0 6.1 "About Ice Climbing - UIAA". UIAA. Archived from the original on May 27, 2019.
  7. "UIAA Ice Climbing – Results Archive – UIAA". UIAA. Archived from the original on Mar 16, 2018.
  8. 8.0 8.1 Steven M. Cox and Kris Fulsaas, ed. (2003) [1960]. Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (7th ed.). Seattle: The Mountaineers Books. ISBN 978-0898868289.
  9. Institute, American Alpine. "The Ice Bollard". alpineinstitute.com. Retrieved 29 March 2019.
  10. "Climbing Grades - Alpinist.com". www.alpinist.com. Retrieved 29 March 2019.

External links

File:Commons-logo.svg Media related to [[commons:Lua error in Module:WikidataIB at line 497: attempt to index field 'wikibase' (a nil value).|Lua error in Module:WikidataIB at line 497: attempt to index field 'wikibase' (a nil value).]] at Wikimedia Commons