Difference between revisions of "Template:Speed climbing"

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'''Speed Climbing''' is a type of [[rock climbing|climbing]] in which speed is the ultimate goal.<ref>[[Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills]], Swan Hill Press; 6th Revised edition edition (14 Oct 1997) ISBN-10: 1840370017 ISBN-13: 978-1840370010</ref>  In pure speed climbing the time is everything but it is also common to record speed accents while observing a particular [[climbing style]] or ethic.  For example there are many speed records in which the climb was done according to [[free climbing]] ethics.  In popular culture speed climbing may be best known for a [[viral video]] featuring [[Dan Osman]] climbing Lover's Leap via the ''[[Bear's Reach (Lover's Leap)|Bear's Reach]]'' route (5.7, 400+ feet) in 4 min 25 sec.<ref>[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fpm0m6bVfrM Dan Osman- Lover's Leap]</ref>  This clip was orignal featured in the movie ''Masters of Stone IV''.
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'''Speed Climbing''' is a type of [[rock climbing|climbing]] in which speed is the ultimate goal.<ref>[[Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills]], Swan Hill Press; 6th Revised edition edition (14 Oct 1997) ISBN-10: 1840370017 ISBN-13: 978-1840370010</ref>  In pure speed climbing the time is everything but it is also common to record speed accents while observing a particular [[climbing style]] or ethic.  For example there are many speed records in which the climb was done according to [[free climbing]] ethics.  In popular culture speed climbing may be best known for a [[viral video]] featuring [[Dan Osman]] climbing Lover's Leap via the ''[[Bear's Reach (Lover's Leap)|Bear's Reach]]'' route (5.7, 400+ feet) in 4 min 25 sec.<ref>[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fpm0m6bVfrM Dan Osman- Lover's Leap]</ref>  This clip was originally featured in the movie ''Masters of Stone IV''.
  
==Types of Speed Climbing==
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== Types of Speed Climbing ==
===Pure Speed Climbing===
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=== Pure Speed Climbing ===
 
Full speed climbing is done in such a way that maximizes speed and minimizes danger.  When climbing with a partner the climbers will alternate between regular [[free climbing]], [[simul climbing]], [[Aid climbing|aiding]], and at times sections of [[Roped solo climbing|roped soloing]].  Speed climbing can also be done by an individual in which they alternate between forms of [[Roped solo climbing|rope soloing]], [[Aid climbing|aiding]], and [[free soloing]].  Strictly speaking this type of speed climbing not a style but a combination or perhaps a type of aid climbing.  However the complexity of combining all the styles together leads to what can be recognized as a separate style with its own particular techniques used in no other style.
 
Full speed climbing is done in such a way that maximizes speed and minimizes danger.  When climbing with a partner the climbers will alternate between regular [[free climbing]], [[simul climbing]], [[Aid climbing|aiding]], and at times sections of [[Roped solo climbing|roped soloing]].  Speed climbing can also be done by an individual in which they alternate between forms of [[Roped solo climbing|rope soloing]], [[Aid climbing|aiding]], and [[free soloing]].  Strictly speaking this type of speed climbing not a style but a combination or perhaps a type of aid climbing.  However the complexity of combining all the styles together leads to what can be recognized as a separate style with its own particular techniques used in no other style.
  
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*280 Routes in a day [[Michael Reardon]] solo 2004.
 
*280 Routes in a day [[Michael Reardon]] solo 2004.
  
===Colorado===
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=== Colorado ===
 
'''[[Eldorado Canyon State Park|Bastille Crack]]'''
 
'''[[Eldorado Canyon State Park|Bastille Crack]]'''
*00:05:33 [[Mic Fairchild]] solo 1998.
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* 00:05:33 [[Mic Fairchild]] solo 1998.
  
 
'''[[Flatirons|Third Flatiron]]'''
 
'''[[Flatirons|Third Flatiron]]'''
*36:27 [[Bill Briggs]] solo 1989 (car to car).
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* 36:27 [[Bill Briggs]] solo 1989 (car to car).
  
===Nevada===
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=== Nevada ===
 
'''[[Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area|Epinephrine]]'''
 
'''[[Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area|Epinephrine]]'''
 
*1:15 [[Jash Stwart]] solo 2002.
 
*1:15 [[Jash Stwart]] solo 2002.
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*23:56 [[Chad Kellogg]] solo 2003 (land strip to landing strip).
 
*23:56 [[Chad Kellogg]] solo 2003 (land strip to landing strip).
  
==See also==
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== See also ==
*[[Climbing styles]]
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* [[Climbing styles]]
*[[Rock Climbing]]
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* [[Rock Climbing]]
  
==References==
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== References ==
 
{{Reflist}}
 
{{Reflist}}
  
 
[[Category:Rock climbing]]
 
[[Category:Rock climbing]]

Revision as of 01:02, 15 January 2009

Speed Climbing is a type of climbing in which speed is the ultimate goal.[1] In pure speed climbing the time is everything but it is also common to record speed accents while observing a particular climbing style or ethic. For example there are many speed records in which the climb was done according to free climbing ethics. In popular culture speed climbing may be best known for a viral video featuring Dan Osman climbing Lover's Leap via the Bear's Reach route (5.7, 400+ feet) in 4 min 25 sec.[2] This clip was originally featured in the movie Masters of Stone IV.

Types of Speed Climbing

Pure Speed Climbing

Full speed climbing is done in such a way that maximizes speed and minimizes danger. When climbing with a partner the climbers will alternate between regular free climbing, simul climbing, aiding, and at times sections of roped soloing. Speed climbing can also be done by an individual in which they alternate between forms of rope soloing, aiding, and free soloing. Strictly speaking this type of speed climbing not a style but a combination or perhaps a type of aid climbing. However the complexity of combining all the styles together leads to what can be recognized as a separate style with its own particular techniques used in no other style.

Style Climbing

Records can be recorded will climbing in a particular style. Each of the methods ultimately handicap the rate of progress with the exception of free soloing.

Free Soloing

The simplest way to increase the of climbing is to shed all safety precautions such as belying and placing protection. This leads to free soloing as rapidly as possible. While strictly speaking this qualifies as full speed climbing or type style climbing it is significant to be recognized as its own category of speed climbing.

Records

Time formate either hrs:min or hrs:min:sec.

California

The Nose, El Capitan

Regular Northwest Route, Half Dome

Snake Dike, Half Dome

Joshua Tree National Park

Colorado

Bastille Crack

Third Flatiron

Nevada

Epinephrine

New York

The Gunks

Wyoming

Grand Traverse

Alaska

Mount McKinley

See also

References

  1. Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, Swan Hill Press; 6th Revised edition edition (14 Oct 1997) ISBN-10: 1840370017 ISBN-13: 978-1840370010
  2. Dan Osman- Lover's Leap