Difference between revisions of "Template:Speed climbing"
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== Types == | == Types == | ||
=== Pure Speed Climbing === | === Pure Speed Climbing === | ||
| − | Full speed climbing is done in such a way that maximizes speed and minimizes danger. When climbing with a partner the climbers will alternate between regular [[free climbing]], [[simul climbing]], [[Aid climbing|aiding]], and at times sections of [[Roped solo climbing|roped soloing]]. Speed climbing can also be done by an individual in which they alternate between forms of [[Roped solo climbing|rope soloing]], [[Aid climbing|aiding]], and [[free soloing]]. Strictly speaking this type of speed climbing not a style but a combination or perhaps a type of aid climbing. However the complexity of combining all the styles together leads to what can be recognized as a separate style with its own particular techniques used in no other style. | + | Full speed climbing is done in such a way that maximizes speed and minimizes danger. When climbing with a partner the climbers will alternate between regular [[free climbing]], [[simul climbing]], [[Aid climbing|aiding]], and at times sections of [[Roped solo climbing|roped soloing]]. Speed climbing can also be done by an individual in which they alternate between forms of [[Roped solo climbing|rope soloing]], [[Aid climbing|aiding]], and [[free soloing]]. Strictly speaking this type of speed climbing is not a style but a combination or perhaps a type of aid climbing. However the complexity of combining all the styles together leads to what can be recognized as a separate style with its own particular techniques used in no other style. |
===Style Climbing=== | ===Style Climbing=== | ||
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Speed Climbing is a type of climbing in which speed is the ultimate goal.[1] In pure speed climbing the time is everything but it is also common to record speed accents while observing a particular climbing style or ethic. For example there are many speed records in which the climb was done according to free climbing ethics. In popular culture speed climbing may be best known for a viral video featuring Dan Osman climbing Lover's Leap via the Bear's Reach route (5.7, 400+ feet) in 4 min 25 sec.[2] This clip was originally featured in the movie Masters of Stone IV.
Contents
Types
Pure Speed Climbing
Full speed climbing is done in such a way that maximizes speed and minimizes danger. When climbing with a partner the climbers will alternate between regular free climbing, simul climbing, aiding, and at times sections of roped soloing. Speed climbing can also be done by an individual in which they alternate between forms of rope soloing, aiding, and free soloing. Strictly speaking this type of speed climbing is not a style but a combination or perhaps a type of aid climbing. However the complexity of combining all the styles together leads to what can be recognized as a separate style with its own particular techniques used in no other style.
Style Climbing
Records can be recorded while climbing in a particular style. Each of the methods ultimately handicap the rate of progress with the exception of free soloing.
Free Soloing
The simplest way to increase the speed of climbing is to shed all safety precautions such as belaying and placing protection. This leads to free soloing as rapidly as possible. While strictly speaking this qualifies as full speed climbing or a type of style climbing it is different enough to be recognized as its own category of speed climbing.
Records
Most speed climbing records lack the standards normally associated with an objectively "records". Hans Florine has written "I will be the first to say that climbing is silly. To make rules about it is just piling ridiculous on top of silly."[3] There are no sanctioned speed climbing competitions on significant rock features. Nearly all climbing goals and records are self-designed, self-timed, self-officiated, few are well documented, and many are disputed.
The collection that follows abide by these loose standards.[3]
Time formate either hrs:min or hrs:min:sec.
California
- 2:43:33 Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine 2008.
- 12:15 Heidi Wertz and Wera Shulte-Pelcum 2004 (all female ascent).
- 11:41 Hans Florine solo. July 2005.
- 11:00 Tommy Caldwell 2005 (free ascent).
- 23:46 Lynn Hill 1994 (free ascent female).
Regular Northwest Route, Half Dome
- 1:53:25 Jim Herson and Hans Florine 1999.
- 5:25 Heidi Wertz and Wera Shulte-Pelcum 2004 (all female ascent).
- 3:58 Hans Florine solo 1999 (Full day also included El Cap).
Snake Dike, Half Dome
- 3:00 Dean Potter 1998 (car to car).
- 280 Routes in a day Michael Reardon solo 2004.
Colorado
- 00:05:33 Mic Fairchild solo 1998.
- 36:27 Bill Briggs solo 1989 (car to car).
Nevada
- 1:15 Jash Stwart solo 2002.
New York
- 50 Routes 13:30 Peter Darmi solo 2004.
- 46 Routes 13:30 Eric Weigeshoff and Peter Darmi 2004.
- 51 Routes 13:30 Eric Weigeshoff and Peter Darmi 2006
Wyoming
- 6:40 Rolando Garibotti solo 2000.
See also
References
- ↑ Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, Swan Hill Press; 6th Revised edition edition (14 Oct 1997) ISBN 1840370017,978-1840370010
- ↑ Dan Osman- Lover's Leap
- ↑ 3.0 3.1 Speed Climbing!: How to Climb Faster and Better 2nd edition, By Hans Florine, Bill Wright Published by Globe Pequot, 2004, ISBN 0762730951, 9780762730957